What are your favorite pest control methods? - Page 3

KarenO · May 4, 2016

I think paying attention, examining your plants and being aware of the first signs of a problem are the most important things you can do. Many wait far too long until there is a serious infestation or advanced disease before they try to do something about it because they just haven't noticed in time. Plants need regular attention and going out to my gardens just to check and look, examining for any sign of problems (and admiring my handiwork) is one of the most pleasurable aspects of gardening, it's the reason I water entirely by hand, it's the best opportunity to regularly closely look at my plants. See a spot, a yellow leaf, notice a cluster of insect eggs... Off it comes there and then and no chance to spread or hatch
KarenO

frankcar1965 · May 5, 2016

Apparently I have a spider mite predator problem every year here in Louisiana since I always have a dickens of a time with mites. And most people seem to also. We must be in the SM predator black hole of the universe. So, until that passes I will continue to use whatever I can to combat them. I might try Organicide oil, cautiously, to see if there is any burning in the heat, it seems to have a high temperature threshold of 95F for some reason, probably because it is veg oil. I guess I'll sacrifice one of the lovelies and see what happens. If it is ok I'll start alternating with the usual Bug-B-Gon which always works. I have already had to spray and it's not even really hot yet or dry, we have had too much rain this year already.

gdaddybill · May 5, 2016

I found my first squash bug yesterday evening while examining a wilted looking plant-mashed it and it didn't stink like some do. I figured there's more hiding so sprayed with a synthetic pyrethroid. Further down the row I spotted a squash vine borer moth (orange & black)-smashed it too. It pays to spend time in the garden!

Gerardo · May 5, 2016

What KarenO says encapsulates it best.

In order of importance in my garden:

1) DE
2) Neem (food grade, ends up being cheaper than the "garden" version, gracias Marsha)
3) Met52EC
4) When it's time to go to the mattresses, Deltamethrin comes out and EVERYONE dies, ContainerTed style!
5) On the rare occasion it is needed, Bt also gets recruited for duty.

Mashman · May 5, 2016

Cigars. Wife runs when I light one.

Blake_HTX · May 6, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mashman

Cigars. Wife runs when I light one.

My girlfriend would too

ilex · May 6, 2016

Cigars are not organic. Nicotine is very posinous and the risk of tobacco mosaic virus transmission is fairly high.

Jacket = wasp

Guinea hens will eat squash bugs.

Something else ... don't plant out of season (I don't grow cabbage in summer for example). Don't over fertilize. Try to use local old varieties.

Mike723 · May 6, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankcar1965

Apparently I have a spider mite predator problem every year here in Louisiana since I always have a dickens of a time with mites. And most people seem to also. We must be in the SM predator black hole of the universe. So, until that passes I will continue to use whatever I can to combat them. I might try Organicide oil, cautiously, to see if there is any burning in the heat, it seems to have a high temperature threshold of 95F for some reason, probably because it is veg oil. I guess I'll sacrifice one of the lovelies and see what happens. If it is ok I'll start alternating with the usual Bug-B-Gon which always works. I have already had to spray and it's not even really hot yet or dry, we have had too much rain this year already.

Frank,
I use these mites every year and they never fail me in my battle against the little demons, lol. The key is to catch them before they being to flourish. Give it a try, it's a lot less work and a permanent solution for the season, good luck!

http://smile.amazon.com/000-Live-Adu...mite+predators

Quote:

Originally Posted by ilex

Cigars are not organic. Nicotine is very posinous and the risk of tobacco mosaic virus transmission is fairly high.

I chewed tobacco in the garden for years and never had an issue.. I think the risk of TMV is slightly exaggerated, or I was just lucky..?

hovermother22 · June 5, 2016

I think my 76 tomato plants planted at a community garden are doomed! We noticed a lot of the lower leaves are being munched on by these little black insects that fly away quickly when disturbed. We are thinking they might be black flea beetles. Does anybody have any experience with a "natural" method for getting rid of these pests? I have read a combination of garlic and cayenne might work???
Thanks.

joseph · June 6, 2016

My strategy for dealing with flea beetles on tomatoes is to plant about 6 week old plants into the field. And plant a genetically diverse population of tomatoes. Some varieties are more susceptible than others. And, flea beetles are not so much of a problem in my garden after the irrigation system becomes active. I speculate that they drown.

hovermother22 · June 6, 2016

Thank you for your response, Joseph! We have many different kinds planted and they are way beyond six weeks -- we started them in late March -- so hopefully they will be okay. Never had this problem at this community garden before. I made up a garlic/pepper spray, but would rather not use it unless they keep moving up to higher leaves on the plant. Hopefully they won't! I appreciate your help!

Nematode · June 14, 2016

If they are flea beetles a trap crop can help.
Eggplant and arugula work for the ones here, but there are many kinds of flea beetles.

hovermother22 · June 14, 2016

Thanks so much. I think we may be out of the woods. They seem to be dying out. In the future, I will definitely use a trap crop. That may be what is helping because they may have moved to somebody else's plot at the community garden for something more yummy.

brownrexx · June 14, 2016

Plant some radishes as a trap crop. Flea beetles love radishes.

I have also read to spread coffee grounds around the plants but I don't know if it works. It seemed to work with my eggplants last year but I don't know for sure that it was the coffee grounds that did the trick. I just know that they disappeared after I spread the grounds.

Dewayne mater · June 15, 2016

I think it is possible to control most pests with a combination of beneficial insects. Predatory nematodes, lady bugs, lace wings and a few different types of wasps - they are tiny, not the type that you try to avoid being stung by. That said, I've never gone all in on this method, but instead used them as aids to limit the number of sprays that have to be done.

I like to use only organic sprays when possible. Early in the year before it's hot, neem is helpful, though not enough by itself. The next level up for me is Spinosad. I also used with success a product called Botanigard, also organic. However, it is expensive and comes in a one pound bag, which is enough for several people with home gardens to share. If and only if worms become a problem (not horned worms, I just pluck those) BT spray.

If all that fails, I'll use take down, which is pyrethrins. I won't use anything more powerful than this, even if it means I won't win.

I've threatened, but not used Kaolin clay. I believe it will take care of many stubborn pests like spider mites and grasshoppers. I also don't think spider mites like wet conditions, so, spraying your plants with seaweed extracts when it is smokin hot seems to help.

Spider mites generally move in when your plants are already weak from disease, other insect attacks or just plain old too hot and dry. If you can help reduce plant stress, it will keep them from attacking somewhat. Also, once they arrive, you have to be diligent on spraying frequently because they have a short life cycle and sprays only get them in certain facets of that life cycle.

May 4, 2016	#31
KarenO Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Vancouver Island Posts: 5,922	I think paying attention, examining your plants and being aware of the first signs of a problem are the most important things you can do. Many wait far too long until there is a serious infestation or advanced disease before they try to do something about it because they just haven't noticed in time. Plants need regular attention and going out to my gardens just to check and look, examining for any sign of problems (and admiring my handiwork) is one of the most pleasurable aspects of gardening, it's the reason I water entirely by hand, it's the best opportunity to regularly closely look at my plants. See a spot, a yellow leaf, notice a cluster of insect eggs... Off it comes there and then and no chance to spread or hatch KarenO Last edited by KarenO; May 5, 2016 at 10:00 PM.

May 5, 2016	#34
Gerardo Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: San Diego-Tijuana Posts: 2,594	What KarenO says encapsulates it best. In order of importance in my garden: 1) DE 2) Neem (food grade, ends up being cheaper than the "garden" version, gracias Marsha) 3) Met52EC 4) When it's time to go to the mattresses, Deltamethrin comes out and EVERYONE dies, ContainerTed style! 5) On the rare occasion it is needed, Bt also gets recruited for duty. Last edited by Gerardo; May 5, 2016 at 11:28 AM.

May 5, 2016	#32
frankcar1965 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: NW Louisiana Posts: 89	Apparently I have a spider mite predator problem every year here in Louisiana since I always have a dickens of a time with mites. And most people seem to also. We must be in the SM predator black hole of the universe. So, until that passes I will continue to use whatever I can to combat them. I might try Organicide oil, cautiously, to see if there is any burning in the heat, it seems to have a high temperature threshold of 95F for some reason, probably because it is veg oil. I guess I'll sacrifice one of the lovelies and see what happens. If it is ok I'll start alternating with the usual Bug-B-Gon which always works. I have already had to spray and it's not even really hot yet or dry, we have had too much rain this year already.

May 5, 2016	#33
gdaddybill Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Burton, TX Posts: 294	I found my first squash bug yesterday evening while examining a wilted looking plant-mashed it and it didn't stink like some do. I figured there's more hiding so sprayed with a synthetic pyrethroid. Further down the row I spotted a squash vine borer moth (orange & black)-smashed it too. It pays to spend time in the garden!

May 5, 2016	#35
Mashman Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: MA Posts: 158	Cigars. Wife runs when I light one.

May 6, 2016	#37
ilex Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Spain Posts: 416	Cigars are not organic. Nicotine is very posinous and the risk of tobacco mosaic virus transmission is fairly high. Jacket = wasp Guinea hens will eat squash bugs. Something else ... don't plant out of season (I don't grow cabbage in summer for example). Don't over fertilize. Try to use local old varieties.

June 5, 2016	#39
hovermother22 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Chicago Posts: 69	I think my 76 tomato plants planted at a community garden are doomed! We noticed a lot of the lower leaves are being munched on by these little black insects that fly away quickly when disturbed. We are thinking they might be black flea beetles. Does anybody have any experience with a "natural" method for getting rid of these pests? I have read a combination of garlic and cayenne might work??? Thanks.

June 6, 2016	#40
joseph Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2013 Location: Cache Valley, N/E of The Great Salt Lake Posts: 1,244	My strategy for dealing with flea beetles on tomatoes is to plant about 6 week old plants into the field. And plant a genetically diverse population of tomatoes. Some varieties are more susceptible than others. And, flea beetles are not so much of a problem in my garden after the irrigation system becomes active. I speculate that they drown.

June 14, 2016	#42
Nematode Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2012 Location: massachusetts Posts: 1,710	If they are flea beetles a trap crop can help. Eggplant and arugula work for the ones here, but there are many kinds of flea beetles.

June 14, 2016	#44
brownrexx Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Southeastern PA Posts: 1,420	Plant some radishes as a trap crop. Flea beetles love radishes. I have also read to spread coffee grounds around the plants but I don't know if it works. It seemed to work with my eggplants last year but I don't know for sure that it was the coffee grounds that did the trick. I just know that they disappeared after I spread the grounds.

June 15, 2016	#45
Dewayne mater Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2008 Location: DFW, Texas Posts: 1,212	I think it is possible to control most pests with a combination of beneficial insects. Predatory nematodes, lady bugs, lace wings and a few different types of wasps - they are tiny, not the type that you try to avoid being stung by. That said, I've never gone all in on this method, but instead used them as aids to limit the number of sprays that have to be done. I like to use only organic sprays when possible. Early in the year before it's hot, neem is helpful, though not enough by itself. The next level up for me is Spinosad. I also used with success a product called Botanigard, also organic. However, it is expensive and comes in a one pound bag, which is enough for several people with home gardens to share. If and only if worms become a problem (not horned worms, I just pluck those) BT spray. If all that fails, I'll use take down, which is pyrethrins. I won't use anything more powerful than this, even if it means I won't win. I've threatened, but not used Kaolin clay. I believe it will take care of many stubborn pests like spider mites and grasshoppers. I also don't think spider mites like wet conditions, so, spraying your plants with seaweed extracts when it is smokin hot seems to help. Spider mites generally move in when your plants are already weak from disease, other insect attacks or just plain old too hot and dry. If you can help reduce plant stress, it will keep them from attacking somewhat. Also, once they arrive, you have to be diligent on spraying frequently because they have a short life cycle and sprays only get them in certain facets of that life cycle.