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Old February 6, 2016   #46
Gardeneer
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We have the same/similar historic data.
They show statistical averages, H and L and record H and L.
But nowadays with 15 days forecast you can make better decision as when to plant out, after your LFD.
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Old February 7, 2016   #47
Andrey_BY
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Crazy google translation

Pavel Saraev is the right name of this famous Soviet/Russian tomato/cucumber breeder.

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Originally Posted by MrBig46 View Post
This is an English translation of the text from the Russian Internet, which MAF said here on Tomatoville:
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...tepniak&page=2
Sarajevo tomatoes: a remarkable legacy
Spring frosts in many areas there are up to June, and often early planted tomato seedlings die. Help avoid this kind of Orenburg breeder Paul Sarajevo, which for decades led the work on breeding tomatoes for resistance to cold.
The main thing - the wind and moisture
Cold-resistant varieties can be planted seedlings much earlier than usual and, respectively, before a crop. And the use of film shelters accelerates ripening and significantly increases productivity. However, speaking of Sarajevo resistance varieties to frost, you should know that this is only possible at low humidity (dry air) and windless weather.
For a long time scientists advised growers evening and night watering as effective against frost. Similar recommendations are found in the literature and now, but this is false. Everyone knows that a man in wet clothes is much colder, especially in windy conditions.
Evaporation causes cooling fluid, and along with it - the cooling of the body. Hypothermia can be even at zero temperature, if increased humidity. Wet surface gives four times more heat than dry.
Gardeners necessarily consider when early spring transplanting two main factors: humidity and wind.
After planting, water the seedlings need a time, and not to do this until there is no danger of frost.
In the period after transplanting until it settle down, the plants decreased resistance to cold, so the seedlings should be planted with minimal damage to the root system (eg pots) that the period of survival was minimal. When growing seedlings should be periodically from the moment of its emergence exposure nighttime freezing temperatures, ranging from a few minutes hardening and increasing it to a few hours. When planting in the ground need to protect seedlings from wind any available material.
Most hardy varieties
Spiridonovskaya. Undersized, standard, precocious. The fruits are small, up to 60 g, red, suitable for canning. From germination to early maturation under favorable conditions, is 80-90 days. Resistance to low temperatures was confirmed by the Institute of Biology, Karelian Branch of the RAS. When tested in young seedlings survived four frozen to -14 °.
Orenburzhets. Undersized, standard. Red fruits, weighing 80-100 g, good taste, universal purpose. Endured three consecutive freeze: -5 °, -7 °, -10 °.
Kemerovets. Undersized. Pink fruits weighing up to 100 g, high commodity and taste, universal purpose. Withstood freezing -7 °, -10 °, -13 °.
0-33. Srednerosloe. The fruits are large, up to 200 g, flat-round, red. Beginning maturity - Mid-July, the yield per bush - more than 6 kg. When tested survived two freezing and one -9 ° -7 °.
Stepniak 50. Srednerosloe. Red fruits, weighing 30-50 g, rounded, smooth, multi-purpose. Is resistant to temperature variations. Went through five freezing to -10 °.
I-3. Average height, very early, in good years the fruits ripen in late June. High-yielding. Fruits are flat-round, red, weighing 100-200 g when tested went through five frost from -6 ° to -11
Siberian. Srednerosloe. Fruits are flat-round, red, large, fleshy, high taste. Variety is very crop. When tested withstood seven frozen to -10 °.
Lemon. Tall, late-maturing. The fruit shape and color to its name, weighing 70-80 g, hang huge brushes, very harvest. The fruits are fleshy, well-kept, suitable for canning. Through three freeze to -10 °.
M-16. Tall, late-maturing. Fruits are very beautiful shape, good presentation. Weighing 200-300 g, fleshy, good taste, well kept. Tests: one frost -3 °, two - on -10 °.
Tomato F1RR. Fruits bright red, flat-round, multi-chamber. The pulp is fleshy and juicy, with a high sugar content, has amazing taste. With proper care and rationing of the ovaries in the brush can grow fruits record up to 2 kg! The plant is vigorous, indeterminate. Fruits ripen 130-140 days. Juice of them get a very thick, well and quickly boil down to the consistency of a paste, and one fruit salad can be prepared for the whole family.
MA Litvinov, p. Novoaleksandrovka Orenburg region.
Vladimír
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1 kg=2.2 lb , 1 m=39,37 in , 1 oz=28.35 g , 1 ft=30.48 cm , 1 lb= 0,4536 kg , 1 in=2.54 cm , 1 l = 0.26 gallon , 0 C=32 F

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Old February 7, 2016   #48
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Growing tomato 0-33 is just an experiment for me - I want to try what temperature they can withstand. I assume most of the 52 transplants during this experiment will die. I do not need any harvest from these tomatoes. Historical data are indicative for me. I'll plant the first seedlings when the soil temperature 10-12 ° C and outdoor temperature (prediction three days) 15- 16 ° C. Another seedling, then I'll plant at intervals of several days.

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Old February 7, 2016   #49
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Last week I bought a 40 m (131 feet) black woven mulching foil and I carved by round holes for the seedlings into it.
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Old February 7, 2016   #50
Andrey_BY
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Vladimir,
+10+12 C is usual temperature level for soil to transplant tomato seedlings in South of Russia. So you should expect a very high percent of surviving tomato plants of Pavel Saraev selection, because 0-33 can easily withstand light minus C as well as most of Saraev cold tolerant varieties! Russian gardeners used to sow Saraev varieties directly in the ground... So probably it's better to compare both ways for you if you would like, of course.

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Originally Posted by MrBig46 View Post
Growing tomato 0-33 is just an experiment for me - I want to try what temperature they can withstand. I assume most of the 52 transplants during this experiment will die. I do not need any harvest from these tomatoes. Historical data are indicative for me. I'll plant the first seedlings when the soil temperature 10-12 ° C and outdoor temperature (prediction three days) 15- 16 ° C. Another seedling, then I'll plant at intervals of several days.

Vladimír
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1 kg=2.2 lb , 1 m=39,37 in , 1 oz=28.35 g , 1 ft=30.48 cm , 1 lb= 0,4536 kg , 1 in=2.54 cm , 1 l = 0.26 gallon , 0 C=32 F

Andrey a.k.a. TOMATODOR

Last edited by Andrey_BY; February 7, 2016 at 01:58 PM.
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Old February 7, 2016   #51
MrBig46
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Interesting idea. I'll think about it
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Old February 7, 2016   #52
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I plant mine when soil temperatures reach 57F ( ~ 13 C) and low air temperatures about 40F. Occasionally it can get down to 34F. It is the soil temperatures that I think are crucial as in colder temps the roots might not be able to uptake the nutrients.

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Old March 11, 2016   #53
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It rained throughout February. temperatures were a little higher than usual. Yesterday snow fell nearly four inches. In the garden I have not done anything yet.
I planted part of seedlings tomatoes 0-33 (32 pc) into 200 ml cups on February 28. Today, every plant has 6-7 true leaves, and their height is from 3 "to 5" depends on where the plants were behind the window (pic 1)
I let the remaining tomato seedlings 0-33 (20 pieces) after four in one pot (reserve) (reserve). These plants are somewhat longer (6 ") because they shade mutually other (pic 2).
I do not see any difference between plants from seeds hardening by cold and from control seeds now.
From other determinate varieties Saraev Gruntovyi, Saraev Shtambovyi, Saraev Otbor 1, Saraev M-22, Saraev I-2, Saraev Soikyi, DSaraev Druzhnyi, Jagodka, Darinka, 42 days, etc. I let only one plant of each variety. I discarded other seedlings.
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Old March 11, 2016   #54
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Vladimír, your plants are looking very nice.
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Old March 11, 2016   #55
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I have 42 Days for the first time. It is a fast grower as a seedling.
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Old March 11, 2016   #56
bower
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They all look very good.
We also had a lot of rain in February instead of snow, but then turned cold again in March. The ground was getting soft but then froze rock hard, with night temperatures down to 7 F (minus 14 C) and windchills to -13 F (- 25 C) with no snow on the ground to protect plants... I have three kinds of green onions and some leeks, testing to see if they will survive and make a perennial patch. They were all surviving and looking great in February... we'll see later if they survived March.
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Old March 15, 2016   #57
MrBig46
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Yesterday I put on a bed of wood frame with windows. I hope it will help me with heating of soil.
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Old March 15, 2016   #58
Ricky Shaw
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Guaranteed to warm things up, and some heavy duty construction. Nice.
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Old March 15, 2016   #59
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Fascinating thread, Vladimir. I will enjoy following your progress and learning new things!
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Old March 16, 2016   #60
Gardeneer
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Vladimir, that is very helpful to get a head start. It is called "Cold Frame" in US.
In a sunny day, it can get real hot in there.
Good Luck with it.

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