Information and discussion for successfully cultivating potatoes, the world's fourth largest crop.
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May 6, 2012 | #76 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: bald hill area thurston county washington
Posts: 312
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Try it and Let us know!
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February 28, 2013 | #77 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: bald hill area thurston county washington
Posts: 312
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After planting out about 50% "pull starts" last year, it is all I will plant this year. My yields from "pull starts" was FAR SUPERIOR both tuber size and overall yield, than tuber sown plants.
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March 1, 2013 | #78 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Tahlequah, Oklahoma
Posts: 102
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That's GREAT to know!
George Tahlequah, OK |
March 9, 2013 | #79 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: West Central MN
Posts: 1
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After you pull the sprouts from the tuber, what do you do with them until they go into the ground? Do they have to be started indoors? I have two buckets of potatoes left from last years harvest with sprouts anywhere from 6 to 24 inches long. Where do I begin?
Thanks. |
March 9, 2013 | #80 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 907
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Quote:
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March 9, 2013 | #81 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: bald hill area thurston county washington
Posts: 312
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You can also take two node cuttings from the ver tips of the long sprouts. I call them "sprout jacks", and usually dip them in a 10% bleach solution then rinse well before being place in a small divot under lights/dome.
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March 9, 2013 | #82 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: bald hill area thurston county washington
Posts: 312
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Neither of these techniques work well for real EARLY potatoes like red norland, and work best with late season such as french fingerling.
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March 10, 2013 | #83 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 907
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Quote:
This approach isn't quite as messy as "pulling sprouts". I have some potatoes with long sprouts. I might cut a few and give this a try. It is too early for me to be starting plants, but this will be more of a "test run". |
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March 12, 2013 | #84 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: bald hill area thurston county washington
Posts: 312
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I usually only needed a couple "sprout jacks" from each variety, so never worried about it!
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May 4, 2014 | #85 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: bald hill area thurston county washington
Posts: 312
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I will be growing almost 100% pull starts this year. I t is the oly way to go with most mid-late season types, especially di-ploids.
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May 4, 2014 | #86 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2013
Location: RI
Posts: 183
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When do you start the tubers sprouting, and when do you plant out?
I have also been wondering how you overwinter the diploids? 20 of the tubers I received from you had no sprouts on them yet, so obviously they stored well however you did it. |
May 4, 2014 | #87 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: MA
Posts: 776
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NP,
I began mine to sprout April 1st but maybe is best mid-March...
__________________
Wendy |
May 5, 2014 | #88 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2013
Location: RI
Posts: 183
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Here are some of my pull sprouts.
This is Satina And this is CIP396256 |
January 6, 2015 | #89 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: California
Posts: 14
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Am I too late to the Party?
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January 6, 2015 | #90 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Omaha Zone 5
Posts: 2,514
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I started mine too early and they were growing onto the ceiling. You are not too late in my book.
- Lisa |
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