Can I put seed tray out in the sun?

[huntsman]

Our summer has just started and I am about to plant a whole lot of seeds in trays.

Since I don't have the proverbial 'sunny kitchen window sill', can I put the trays (8) out in the direct sun with saran wrap?

[cornbreadlouie]

Might not need the saran wrap. Nature does it that way so I dont see why you couldnt! Just make sure they get enough water! Direct sunlight might not be best but I'm sure some will be fine as long as its not blazing outside.

[Zana]

You might find direct sun may be too drying. I'm with CBL that you probably won't need the saran wrap - except perhaps until you see the first sight of them break through the soil. Otherwise, I think you'll fry the seedlings.

I've direct sown and set them outside in the warmer temps. These tend to take off faster than anything I sow in the house. I don't cover them with plastic at all (except if there is a chance of frost and then its with a heavy mil plastic or some propped up comforters to keep them cosy.

Good luck

[huntsman]

OH! No saran at all...

I wasn't expecting that....Surely the seeds would dry out faster than I could water them?

What also concerns me is that if I water regularly, I might get a green mould in the growmix. Is this valid?

Shall I put them out under shade, perhaps?

Would I water from beneath on a daily schedule?

Sorry about all the questions! (Coming at once!)

[Zana]

The only time that I put mine under a plastic domes under direct sun outside, I had to make sure that it was propped up so that it got ventilation. The first one I put out fried because I didn't do this. It didn't have a chance to grow any green mold.

So with the rest of them I put them in a deeper watering tray with a thin sponge mat over pebbles beneath so that they could wick up water as needed....not drying out. Or so I thought. But between the sun and the wind, the whole thing still dried out faster than I would've liked, since the soil under the plastic domes heated up so fast it went through water even faster than if left out directly with no covering.

Perhaps under shade until established might have worked better. I haven't tried that, but perhaps somebody else may have tried that method.

I found watering from beneath worked best, less chance of mold. Plus it seemed to encourage deeper root growth. Make 'em work for their water!

Not sure about the whole issue with green mold. That might be from it standing in too much water. And not enough ventilation under the dome. Might need to use damping off or perhaps a tiny bit of bleach in the water? And I mean tiny...a couple of drops per gallon? I'm sure there are more experienced experts on this issue here.

Dunno if that helps, but hope it does.

Zana

[huntsman]

Thanks, Zana -

I'll try them with saran in semi shade as well as without saran in an area that gets direct sun for three or four hours in the morning, and water all from below with that bleach idea.

Schweeet!

[Zana]

I'd do some without the bleach just in case that's too strong.

[kath]

I've noticed that I get more helmet heads when I don't have a dome or some kind of covering over the seedling trays. When I've planted 72 different varieties in one tray, invariably some sprout WAY sooner than others, so I always wind up removing the lid before some have sprouted. I have often placed them outdoors in the sun at this point if it's a rather late planting, or if we're having a warm spell. Maybe the helmet heads are more a result of older, not-so-good seed that's sprouting late, but it seems that the lack of humidity plays a role. Anyway, I'd be interested in hearing whether you notice any difference in your experiment with regard to this problem.

I've also had a problem with the green mold and think that adding a bit of lime to your soilless mix might help, letting the top of the soil dry out between real waterings, and maybe just misting with water in between. We can get that green mold in our garden too because our soil tends to be very acidic as is our well water and with acid rain, too, it's a constant battle. We add wood ash and lime every time we put in another crop, till, etc. I've also had good luck using 50/50 hydrogen peroxide/water sprays to avoid damping off, but I don't know if it might combat the green stuff, too.

[Tania]

huntsman,

tomato seeds do not need light to germinate, so you can keep the seed trays in any warm dark place. I guess shady spot will do, or inside, as long as the temperatures are warm enough.

Once they sprout, they'd need sunlight.

[huntsman]

Hey,

thanks for all the help - please keep it coming!

No idea what a helmet head might be, kath, but I'm sure it's darn painful! (I'll do a search on the site - it's bound to be described)

Thanks, Tania: I have a garden shed which might be perfect for the shaded ones. When they germinate I have banks of grow lights in there also...

OKIE DOKIE....i THINK THE HELMET HEAD IS WHERE THE SEED CASING IS STUCK AND DOESN'T RELEASE THE COTYLEDONS?

[kath]

Originally Posted by huntsman

OKIE DOKIE....i THINK THE HELMET HEAD IS WHERE THE SEED CASING IS STUCK AND DOESN'T RELEASE THE COTYLEDONS?

Yup, that's it! This year I had SO many of them- every day I'd cover the new ones with saliva and wait a few minutes to let them soften up and then attempt to slide the casings off, hoping not to behead them. Didn't have much luck leaving them alone- often they just stayed that way.

[ddsack]

Some years it seems like I have way more of those than normal.

If the seed doesn't come off with the first saliva attempt, I wet it again with water, and put a tiny pinch of plastic saran wrap over it, so it's trapped in a big moisture bead and can't dry out.


Wait a good hour, and then try again. As a last resort, there is always micro surgery with a pin, to open a tear in the seed case and lift it off. At this point you have a good chance of breaking off part of the cotyledons, but the seedling usually survives.

[kath]

Originally Posted by ddsack

If the seed doesn't come off with the first saliva attempt, I wet it again with water, and put a tiny pinch of plastic saran wrap over it, so it's trapped in a big moisture bead and can't dry out.
Wait a good hour, and then try again. As a last resort, there is always micro surgery with a pin, to open a tear in the seed case and lift it off. At this point you have a good chance of breaking off part of the cotyledons, but the seedling usually survives.

Great tips- thanks!

[salix]

If you have steady hands, it is also possible to do 'microsurgery' on the dampened seedhead by holding steady with a pair of tweezers and slicing down one side with a scalpel or razor blade or even very small cuticle scissors, then teasing off the seedcoat.

[huntsman]

I must have a lot of luck down here in darkest Africa....

When this occurs, I place some saliva on the helmet and after a few moments squeeze gently on the joined edges, popping them open. At least 95% success this way