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General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.

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Old 1 Week Ago   #346
AlittleSalt
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Rajun, you brought up old memories. We lived close to Whitney back in 1987. I would have never thought to look there. It's only about 25 miles away. Anything being sold cheap there is an oddity. There is a large fishing/recreation lake there (Lake Whitney) which is a dam on the Brazos river. It is popular for locals and tourists. Just bring plenty of money and don't expect much. It is a good place to get away from the big cities. There's a realistic chance of seeing bald eagles there. Here I am promoting a place that makes many people wonder why they went there.

Yes, we do live out in the boonies. Our grandchildren think that bigfoot lives on our property.
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Old 2 Days Ago   #347
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Well, there's a lot to learn. I only grew one large-to-me variety. Black Krim, and I'm thinking seeds only because I overwatered?
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Old 2 Days Ago   #348
ginger2778
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Robert those are still going to taste good and grest in sauce/salsa.
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Old 2 Days Ago   #349
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If they're tasty, just cut out the bad spots. If they're not, then try cooking them down; it brings out flavor. The one furthest back in the pic does look pretty far gone; maybe that's the one for seeds.


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Old 1 Day Ago   #350
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Here are some results. It's kind of funny that I have compared growing in the 5 gallon buckets to growing in a party cup. The results look very similar. I had to pull three plants today. Two are Gargamel that did not produce correctly in size of the tomatoes. I don't think that variety is stable yet. The other plant was a Black Krim that has already produced 6 tomatoes and isn't going to produce any more in 100+F heat.

The first picture shows a pulled tomato plant as you would pull them out of the ground (grown in a bucket). The pictures after shows how many roots are left when we pull tomato plants in that way. The picture of the bucket not only shows the bucket, but also NC stands for Nature's Care and the name of the variety. I grew another Gargamel in Pro Mix and saw no difference in plant size or production.

As always, I would like to read your thoughts, comments, ideas, etc.
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Old 7 Hours Ago   #351
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Salt, do you prune your plants? This study was a long time ago, but I don't thinks tomato plants have changed much. I think this might be the study that changed my way of doing things. I grew up being taught that you had to remove suckers on tomato plants. Never questioned why. But then I read this. I do not prune my plants in containers, either. There are advantages to pruning, like larger fruit, and maybe faster ripening if you live in a short season area. I don't really care so much about those things, I want the most fruit in good condition and the healthiest plants I can. I wonder if maybe because plants store water in the leaves, the more leaves they have, the more they can adapt to overly wet or dry conditions before it effects the fruit. Anyway, next time you might try pruning half your plants and not pruning the other half and see what happens. I wish there were more actual univeristy studies on this, but this is the only one I know of. It always helps to see if results are reproducable from one study to the next.

http://horticulture.oregonstate.edu/...ng-method-1978
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Old 4 Hours Ago   #352
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Sue. that's some good reading. This planting, I intended to plant two rows of 5 plants each. However, I had two extra plants. Those two I let sprawl on the cypress mulch. The Black Krim was one of them, and Porter was the other. The Porter plant is still producing well. The other 10, I only pruned when I had to.

I still have two plants left - the Porter mentioned above and a Japanese Pink Cherry plant that is spread out over three cages. I have tomato seeds started for the fall crop and will be growing 8 plants. Two each of:

Big Beef F1
Japanese Pink Cherry
Juliet F1
Porter

We love the way Japanese Pink Cherry and Porter tastes and they both grow well here. Japanese Pink Cherry is sweet and was sold as a hybrid years ago. It is an OP variety now. Porter was developed locally back in the 1920s to grow in our weather - it has a more balanced taste.

Big Beef, I want to grow because I have read so many good reviews and replies about it. The Juliet F1 seeds are from 2013. I think they will germinate just fine but I don't have experience starting older hybrid seeds. I have had very good luck starting OP seeds over 10 years old. We have grown Juliet F1 once before, but that was in 2015 when it rained almost every day in March through mid-June. I don't think it had a fair chance that year, but it did produce a lot of tomatoes even through all the rain.
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Old 3 Hours Ago   #353
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Well, if you only pruned when you had to, that certainly didn't contribute to your problem with cracking. I do remember you saying how much you were watering, but I think it is going to be a trial and error thing with your heat and providing enough water but not too much.
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Old 2 Hours Ago   #354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SueCT View Post
Well, if you only pruned when you had to, that certainly didn't contribute to your problem with cracking. I do remember you saying how much you were watering, but I think it is going to be a trial and error thing with your heat and providing enough water but not too much.
The consecutive 100+ degree days didn't help - that's for sure. I also had problems with BER on the Gargamel tomatoes, but only those two plants. Sungold split as usual which was another two plants. The downburst winds from a nearby thunderstorm broke the main stem of one of the plants. I already knew I needed better cages staked down.

Lots of trial and error, and a whole lot more learning.
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