Blossom End Rot reeking havok

Clint M · July 7, 2016

I have lost well over half my crop to blossom end rot, so bad that I have know for years the miracle cures that don't work daddy bought some and they didn't work as I thought. It's distressing to say the least, the early tomato sets on bottom and midway up look good no ber, but the new tomatoes toward the top are loosing over half to ber. I'm going to get some lime today to sprinkle on top of mulch/soil and water in just to see if it helps.

My plants are wilting during the heat of the day (Georgia) they are heavily mulched with pine straw, fertilized with chicken manure, and after the tomatoes reached head high and growing out of cages sideways etc I gave one feeding of jobes (same as miracle grow). Some of the plants are suffering summer heat, but overall they are setting fruit like wildfire, beautiful vines very little disease. Water has been an issue as very little rain, I have been trying to keep them watered, but this is just not normal.... maybe the combo of chicken manure and ine needles has caused this.

On the other hand I have grown some of the biggest tomatoes ever hearts the size of two hand, brandywine even bigger, red brandywine has outperformed every plant in the garden taste wise and plant wise.... any ideas other than just keep pulling ber tomatoes ? I hate loosing over half my crop, next year I plan to put plenty of lime down months before setting out tomatoes.

Starlight · July 7, 2016

Clint.... Here is an excellent article by our Carolyn Male from here

http://www.webgrower.com/information/carolyn_ber.html

Adding all kinds of stuff may not help but hinder the rest of your crop. I had one plant that developed BER when it first started producing tomatoes. I had to toss the first 15 tomatoes because it had it.

I read Carolyn's article and other posts from folks and the only thing you really can do is watch your watering and keep your plants from being stressed. Hard to do the stress part with our heat and humidity down here, but it can be done.

The plant I was getting BER on did not like so much water. I count the seconds I give of water to every plant. I few prefer to have really dry conditions. When I cut their water count in half from a ten count to a five count, they grew right out of the problem.

Don't know how many plants you have growing, but a bit of shade does wonders down here in the South during the summer months. Putting a couple of stakes up and throwing some cheese cloth over the top and along the front side where hot afternoon sun hits the plants makes a major difference. That cheese cloth will lower temps 20+ degrees.

Usually during these 100+ days I water twice a day. I water a ten count in the morning to everybody roots, not on leaves and then I go out about 1:30 -2 pm and give a five count. That plenty of water for the plants and it is enough to keep them from wilting and stressing. That afternoon quickie drink again just on roots, refreshes the plants just like water does for us.

I would also suggest using Tomato Tone for feeding if you aren't already using it. best stuff ever for our plants. I started using it from when seedlings were small and it not only has the nutrients it is full of good bacteria that helps protect the plants and makes them stronger and more able to combat heat and humidity stress.

zipcode · July 7, 2016

Boron, don't remove affected fruit, less chicken manure (try cattle).

Clint M · July 7, 2016

They are caged and very shaded inside, maybe the chicken manure do cause it but the first fruits and middle up the vine is fine, it's the top where the heat has really come on and drought as well (very little rain) is what is taking the big hit. I agree about once you see the ber it's probably to late, but I'm loosing so many that I want to at least try something. We have also had uncharacteristic warm wind blowing for the last month really dries the plants out. In the end it's not over watering for sure it's under watering if anything, but I mulch to try and fend off the climate here... Chicken manure is the best I can do as far as far as fertilizer I'm getting to the point of refusing to pay prices for 10-10-10 etc, I have used it for years and no problems like this, this year has been far worse than anything I have seen. Still overall plants are beautiful, I have some that the heat is taking a tole on, but no difference in any plants ber is prolific among all plants, varieties etc. Thank you for the help, and I was reading over that link as well thank you.

I know not to water the plants only roots, but we have missed so many close rains where the storm just stops or a few drops and the plants are screaming for wat I have watered the plant itself they take the water in and are dry within an hour, I know it's a no no, but felt I just substituted a light shower they should have gotten LOL

Jetstar · July 7, 2016

Clint M I container garden and last year both of my grow bag tomatoes got BER and even though I picked them off the BER came back!! So this year I decided to be pro active and use foliar sprays of Epsom salt of both calcium nitrate & calcium carbonate I began applying the sprays 3 times a week as soon as the first fruits appeared. Knock on wood, its been 3 weeks now and no trace of BER yet. Luck? Maybe but I think I'm giving the tomatoes what they need in a form they can absorb easily. I never had BER problems when I planted in soil, its my belief that the potting mix just runs out of vital nutrients that are needed in the growing stage to form fruit that is free of BER. I also used 2 Jobes tomato spikes in each grow bag. The jury is still out but so far the initial results are very promising... Will it work for everyone? Don't know, heck I'm not even sure it will for me, but so far so good!

Clint M · July 7, 2016

I think adding lime is not going to hurt our soil in Ga always needs lime always !! If nothing else I'm amending my soil for next year. Good info thanks for the replies. I have always said ber is due to weather wild swings in temp and rainfall, I hope whatever the problem is self corrects soon it's really heartbreaking pulling so many tomatoes with ber, loosing half a crop is to much....that's how they sell the magic ber solutions people will start getting desperate trying anything to fix the problem.

greenthumbomaha · July 7, 2016

Clint M, are the plants without BER a certain variety or size? I find the smaller San Marzano types to be hit hard relative to other tomatoes.

- Lisa

zipcode · July 8, 2016

I'm loving it when people just brush aside any actual advice and go back to the good old common knowledge, like 'better take a nap than stress over it'.

http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2FBF02374224

One product that should be really good (I haven't needed it, and it's rather new) is Borocal, with calcium carboxylates, so no nitrogen that will itself induce some ber (like in the calcium nitrate).

"even though I picked them off the BER came back", yep, as I said.

Jetstar · July 8, 2016

Zipcode if your worried about the small amount of nitrogen in a foliar spray of calcium nitrate, just use calcium carbonate instead... I use both in a foliar spray along with a foliar spray of Epsom salt, I apply the sprays 2 or 3 times a week and so far no BER in my tomatoes or bell peppers! Last year I had nothing but BER trouble in my tomato & pepper plants... But last year I wasn't using foliar sprays!

Jetstar · July 8, 2016

Is there any difinitive proof as to what causes BER? Many people are still in the dark about BER and its causes, and what methods are effective in actually preventing BER. I think I'm doing the right thing with my use of foliar sprays, but if there's a better method I'm willing to listen & learn!

JerryHaskins · July 8, 2016

I do not understand all of the debate about blossom end rot.

I used to get it, but the solution is easy and cheap:

Go to your local garden store (not a big box store) and ask for "blossom end rot concentrate".

You will get a bottle of about 8 ounces. Several companies make it. Mix it with water and apply as directed.

It will not save tomatoes that already show signs of blossom end rot---but it prevents it in new growth.

I wish all gardening problems were so easily solved!

PA Wolf · July 8, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by zipcode

I'm loving it when people just brush aside any actual advice and go back to the good old common knowledge, like 'better take a nap than stress over it'.

http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2FBF02374224

One product that should be really good (I haven't needed it, and it's rather new) is Borocal, with calcium carboxylates, so no nitrogen that will itself induce some ber (like in the calcium nitrate).

"even though I picked them off the BER came back", yep, as I said.

That was a very helpful article, thanks for sharing. I am currently dealing with BER and have been panicking thinking I'll lose all my tomatoes, but now know better. Great article, thanks again!

Clint M · July 9, 2016

I have used the blossom end rot concentrate but from the past it's seems to be snake oil as it does not work, and it didn't help my current problem either. Size, variety does not seem to be it as it's all over ever plant, maybe some of the potato leaf varieties are not hit as hard, but I don't have near the tomato sets on them as others. I have Russian 117, German Red Strawberry, Brandywine OTV, Brandywine Red, Brandywin, Bulls Heart others I'm sure I forgot, daddy planted some parks whoppers and his is the exact same. I'm sure it's heat/water stress, but I have had it in the past lost maybe 1/3 of tomatoes in my worst year, this year is way different loosing well over half.

I'm sure I wasted my money, but the lime didn't hurt as our soil in Georgia always needs lime so I sprinkled some at the base of the plant/stem watered in, and then mixed a epsom salt with miracle grow gave the plants a good foliage feeding again it won't hurt anything and doubtful it will help, but this time of year plants are 6' and growing out the side of cages a boost in nutrients will not hurt for the last big push for fruit. We got a decent rain last night I'm sure that will help with BER, and daddy will claim for sure my concoction worked LOL.

I really hate BER

b54red · July 9, 2016

Uneven watering is the cause of most BER that I have had in the past. I use cypress mulch heavily under my tomato plants and I fertilize with Texas Tomato Food and since doing those two things I have not had a single case of BER. The heat here has been very intense this summer so plants are stressing more than normal due to the amount of moisture they require in these conditions. Even with much higher than normal temps this summer I still haven't had a single case of BER out of over 80 tomato plants and none of them are wilting in the 100 degree days.

There is the possiblity that you have some nematode problems and that could definitely cause a problem with moisture intake and result in BER. With good fruit lower on the vines it is hard not to over water and split the fruit in order to maintain the fruit set on the top of the plant so you may need to water more often. I highly recommend the cypress mulch which holds soil moisture better than any mulch I have tried in 40 years of growing tomatoes and Texas Tomato Food which has boosted my production as well as general overall plant health.

Bill

Shapshftr · July 17, 2016

Uneven watering as Bill said is a cause, as well as lack of calcium. If you're not afraid to wet the leaves you can try spraying them with a liquid calcium chloride that you can buy in garden centers. That will correct a calcium deficiency faster than getting it through the soil.

July 7, 2016	#1
Clint M Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Georgia Posts: 18	Blossom End Rot reeking havok I have lost well over half my crop to blossom end rot, so bad that I have know for years the miracle cures that don't work daddy bought some and they didn't work as I thought. It's distressing to say the least, the early tomato sets on bottom and midway up look good no ber, but the new tomatoes toward the top are loosing over half to ber. I'm going to get some lime today to sprinkle on top of mulch/soil and water in just to see if it helps. My plants are wilting during the heat of the day (Georgia) they are heavily mulched with pine straw, fertilized with chicken manure, and after the tomatoes reached head high and growing out of cages sideways etc I gave one feeding of jobes (same as miracle grow). Some of the plants are suffering summer heat, but overall they are setting fruit like wildfire, beautiful vines very little disease. Water has been an issue as very little rain, I have been trying to keep them watered, but this is just not normal.... maybe the combo of chicken manure and ine needles has caused this. On the other hand I have grown some of the biggest tomatoes ever hearts the size of two hand, brandywine even bigger, red brandywine has outperformed every plant in the garden taste wise and plant wise.... any ideas other than just keep pulling ber tomatoes ? I hate loosing over half my crop, next year I plan to put plenty of lime down months before setting out tomatoes.

July 7, 2016	#4
Clint M Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Georgia Posts: 18	They are caged and very shaded inside, maybe the chicken manure do cause it but the first fruits and middle up the vine is fine, it's the top where the heat has really come on and drought as well (very little rain) is what is taking the big hit. I agree about once you see the ber it's probably to late, but I'm loosing so many that I want to at least try something. We have also had uncharacteristic warm wind blowing for the last month really dries the plants out. In the end it's not over watering for sure it's under watering if anything, but I mulch to try and fend off the climate here... Chicken manure is the best I can do as far as far as fertilizer I'm getting to the point of refusing to pay prices for 10-10-10 etc, I have used it for years and no problems like this, this year has been far worse than anything I have seen. Still overall plants are beautiful, I have some that the heat is taking a tole on, but no difference in any plants ber is prolific among all plants, varieties etc. Thank you for the help, and I was reading over that link as well thank you. I know not to water the plants only roots, but we have missed so many close rains where the storm just stops or a few drops and the plants are screaming for wat I have watered the plant itself they take the water in and are dry within an hour, I know it's a no no, but felt I just substituted a light shower they should have gotten LOL Last edited by Clint M; July 7, 2016 at 01:21 PM.

July 7, 2016	#2
Starlight Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: AL Posts: 1,993	Clint.... Here is an excellent article by our Carolyn Male from here http://www.webgrower.com/information/carolyn_ber.html Adding all kinds of stuff may not help but hinder the rest of your crop. I had one plant that developed BER when it first started producing tomatoes. I had to toss the first 15 tomatoes because it had it. I read Carolyn's article and other posts from folks and the only thing you really can do is watch your watering and keep your plants from being stressed. Hard to do the stress part with our heat and humidity down here, but it can be done. The plant I was getting BER on did not like so much water. I count the seconds I give of water to every plant. I few prefer to have really dry conditions. When I cut their water count in half from a ten count to a five count, they grew right out of the problem. Don't know how many plants you have growing, but a bit of shade does wonders down here in the South during the summer months. Putting a couple of stakes up and throwing some cheese cloth over the top and along the front side where hot afternoon sun hits the plants makes a major difference. That cheese cloth will lower temps 20+ degrees. Usually during these 100+ days I water twice a day. I water a ten count in the morning to everybody roots, not on leaves and then I go out about 1:30 -2 pm and give a five count. That plenty of water for the plants and it is enough to keep them from wilting and stressing. That afternoon quickie drink again just on roots, refreshes the plants just like water does for us. I would also suggest using Tomato Tone for feeding if you aren't already using it. best stuff ever for our plants. I started using it from when seedlings were small and it not only has the nutrients it is full of good bacteria that helps protect the plants and makes them stronger and more able to combat heat and humidity stress.

July 7, 2016	#3
zipcode Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Romania/Germany , z 4-6 Posts: 1,582	Boron, don't remove affected fruit, less chicken manure (try cattle).

July 7, 2016	#5
Jetstar Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: N.E. Wisconsin Posts: 308	Clint M I container garden and last year both of my grow bag tomatoes got BER and even though I picked them off the BER came back!! So this year I decided to be pro active and use foliar sprays of Epsom salt of both calcium nitrate & calcium carbonate I began applying the sprays 3 times a week as soon as the first fruits appeared. Knock on wood, its been 3 weeks now and no trace of BER yet. Luck? Maybe but I think I'm giving the tomatoes what they need in a form they can absorb easily. I never had BER problems when I planted in soil, its my belief that the potting mix just runs out of vital nutrients that are needed in the growing stage to form fruit that is free of BER. I also used 2 Jobes tomato spikes in each grow bag. The jury is still out but so far the initial results are very promising... Will it work for everyone? Don't know, heck I'm not even sure it will for me, but so far so good!

July 7, 2016	#7
greenthumbomaha Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Omaha Zone 5 Posts: 2,514	Clint M, are the plants without BER a certain variety or size? I find the smaller San Marzano types to be hit hard relative to other tomatoes. - Lisa

July 8, 2016	#8
zipcode Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Romania/Germany , z 4-6 Posts: 1,582	I'm loving it when people just brush aside any actual advice and go back to the good old common knowledge, like 'better take a nap than stress over it'. http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2FBF02374224 One product that should be really good (I haven't needed it, and it's rather new) is Borocal, with calcium carboxylates, so no nitrogen that will itself induce some ber (like in the calcium nitrate). "even though I picked them off the BER came back", yep, as I said.

July 8, 2016	#11
JerryHaskins Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Mississippi Posts: 166	I do not understand all of the debate about blossom end rot. I used to get it, but the solution is easy and cheap: Go to your local garden store (not a big box store) and ask for "blossom end rot concentrate". You will get a bottle of about 8 ounces. Several companies make it. Mix it with water and apply as directed. It will not save tomatoes that already show signs of blossom end rot---but it prevents it in new growth. I wish all gardening problems were so easily solved!

July 9, 2016	#13
Clint M Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Georgia Posts: 18	I have used the blossom end rot concentrate but from the past it's seems to be snake oil as it does not work, and it didn't help my current problem either. Size, variety does not seem to be it as it's all over ever plant, maybe some of the potato leaf varieties are not hit as hard, but I don't have near the tomato sets on them as others. I have Russian 117, German Red Strawberry, Brandywine OTV, Brandywine Red, Brandywin, Bulls Heart others I'm sure I forgot, daddy planted some parks whoppers and his is the exact same. I'm sure it's heat/water stress, but I have had it in the past lost maybe 1/3 of tomatoes in my worst year, this year is way different loosing well over half. I'm sure I wasted my money, but the lime didn't hurt as our soil in Georgia always needs lime so I sprinkled some at the base of the plant/stem watered in, and then mixed a epsom salt with miracle grow gave the plants a good foliage feeding again it won't hurt anything and doubtful it will help, but this time of year plants are 6' and growing out the side of cages a boost in nutrients will not hurt for the last big push for fruit. We got a decent rain last night I'm sure that will help with BER, and daddy will claim for sure my concoction worked LOL. I really hate BER

July 9, 2016	#14
b54red Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 7,068	Uneven watering is the cause of most BER that I have had in the past. I use cypress mulch heavily under my tomato plants and I fertilize with Texas Tomato Food and since doing those two things I have not had a single case of BER. The heat here has been very intense this summer so plants are stressing more than normal due to the amount of moisture they require in these conditions. Even with much higher than normal temps this summer I still haven't had a single case of BER out of over 80 tomato plants and none of them are wilting in the 100 degree days. There is the possiblity that you have some nematode problems and that could definitely cause a problem with moisture intake and result in BER. With good fruit lower on the vines it is hard not to over water and split the fruit in order to maintain the fruit set on the top of the plant so you may need to water more often. I highly recommend the cypress mulch which holds soil moisture better than any mulch I have tried in 40 years of growing tomatoes and Texas Tomato Food which has boosted my production as well as general overall plant health. Bill

July 17, 2016	#15
Shapshftr Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Illinois Posts: 162	Uneven watering as Bill said is a cause, as well as lack of calcium. If you're not afraid to wet the leaves you can try spraying them with a liquid calcium chloride that you can buy in garden centers. That will correct a calcium deficiency faster than getting it through the soil.