Discussion forum for the various methods and structures used for getting an early start on your growing season, extending it for several weeks or even year 'round.
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February 9, 2010 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lebanon, PA • Zone 6a
Posts: 145
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Do I put up a greenhouse? HELP!
I have been trying to decide if it's worth putting up a greenhouse. I start all my seeds under lights in the basement. Of course i run out of room as I pot up and everything grows too big.
I have some difficult situations with a greenhouse. I live in Pennsylvania (Zone 6a)
I also don't know if the in-expensive kits with the tarp covering will hold up or should I build something with the poly-carbonate panels. I've also considering going to a construction sale and buying cheap windows and building a lean-too greenhouse onto my shed. But then again...I have the Sun issue. I didn't really want to invest in heating it. I didn't know if that would be an option? I need lots of help! Any advise is appreciated.
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February 9, 2010 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: near Abilene, TX
Posts: 34
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I have one, but I don't use it very often, except to start some seeds early in Spring. In the summer here, the greenhouse gets so HOT, with 100 degree temps, anything in it cooks..in the winter, I have trie electric heaters...too expensive, then I have put in an Ashley wood heater, but that did not work out well either, to me, the expense of keeping it going was not worth it. So, I only get to use mine for a little while in Spring..
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...oftheHill1.jpg You can see it behing the goat...LOL....I had plastic on it, then it blew off, then I went to the fiber plastic, and it all shattered during a freezing spell, so I ended up putting fiberglass on it. |
February 10, 2010 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: South Carolina Zone 8a
Posts: 1,205
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Have you considered a PVC hoop house that you can put up and take down with minimal fuss? You could put it up over your garden in the spring and/or fall to extend you season by a few weeks at each end.
These are the plans I used for the one I made. http://westsidegardener.com/howto/hoophouse.html How to seal up the ends was the tricky bit, but I overwintered several pepper plants, a couple of egg plants, and a mess of weeds one winter using this. |
February 10, 2010 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: WI, USA Zone4
Posts: 1,887
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Maybe build something of a coldframe nature...poorman's greenhouse.
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February 10, 2010 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Moore, South Carolina
Posts: 35
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I love my greenhouse. My DH gave it to me as a b-day present, not anticipating that I'd be using it for business! I'm like you--I start all seeds downstairs, then run out of room as a pot them up. We also live in a forest--so light is a big issue.
The greenhouse is a kit, 8 x 10, and hubby had to build a foundation for it due to our sloping yard. We have one little patch that's not complete shade--so that's where it is. I do have a small heater running. Personally, I love it--but I also grow about 5000+ plants (and I'm still wondering where to put them all...) Yesterday, as it was freezing here in SC, I went in the greenhouse to work--it was bliss. Warmth, plants, soil...what more does a girl need?! Good luck with your decision! |
February 10, 2010 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chillicothe Ohio - left Calif July 2010
Posts: 451
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Blue
I have also seen a variation with actual white nursery covering and at the bottom a T is place sideways on the ends and regularly across the rest of the structure so a pipe can also go across the bottom - grommets are placed along edges of the cover and bottom and metal rings are used to secure to the hoop frame - this way the cover can be pulled up or lowered to allow the plants to back in the sun and moved back at night to protect from cold - this is great for areas where heat is a problem - also where there is heat and heavy sun a nursery shade cover can be raised to help the plants Dennis |
February 10, 2010 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: South Carolina Zone 8a
Posts: 1,205
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Yeah, it seems a better way to extend your seasons than overwinter plants. On a really cold night, 25F or below, there was no way to keep it above freezing without a heater of some sort, and that got expensive fast.
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February 10, 2010 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chillicothe Ohio - left Calif July 2010
Posts: 451
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Blue
When I move to Montana or Ohio I am buying an 30x48 foot greenhouse like the following and add solar electric panels - and it comes complete with the following options saving ahead for the Northern package when it's time to move The Northern Package Ranger Series A professional package to get you started in the greenhouse business - This greenhouse can provide year-round production for propagation and growing, retail garden centers, aqua culture, and provides the most square footage for the dollar as an instructional or institutional greenhouse. The frame of this structure is constructed from galvanized steel roll-formed components. The difference between the Northern and Economy Starter Packages is the Northern version is COMPLETELY covered with 8mm twinwall polycarbonate instead of using poly film on the roof and sidewalls. If your budget can't handle the Northern Package at this time, choose the Economy Starter Package. Your roof can always be retro-fitted with 8mm polycarbonate at a later time when your greenhouse is turning a profit. All Ranger Greenhouses are engineered to meet 70 mph wind and you can choose from 10, 20, or 30 pound live load per the UBC Building Code. The free style gothic arch is designed to reduce roof snow build-up and provide maximum headroom. All galvanized steel frame insures maximum strength and life. Lexan twin-wall polycarbonate covering is UV resistant and carries a 10-year warranty against discoloration. Prices include complete frame with 8mm polycarbonate twin-wall covering on the endwalls, sidewalls, and roof, (1) 3' x 6'-8" storm door, (2) Exhaust Fans, (3) Motorized Inlet Shutters, (1) Heating Thermostat, (1) 2 Stage Cooling Stat, (1) Modine PDP200 High Efficiency Gas Unit Heater (Natural Gas or Propane), (2) Horizontal Air Flow Fans, complete assembly instructions, and an electrical wiring diagram showing details of all equipment connections. the northern package Ranger Series $18,950-19,995 the economy Ranger series uses polyfilm $11,995-13,995 rest is the same The Garden Grower starts at : 9x12 for $4995 12x12 up to 24 ft wide $5195-6895 18x18 up to 18x36 $7295-11,995 Garden Grower Greenhouse Package - This is the perfect greenhouse for starting a greenhouse business. A commercial quality greenhouse at a price that will not break your budget. The frame of this structure is constructed from the same high quality, galvanized steel roll-formed components as our larger greenhouses. As such, this building can be engineered to meet almost any snow or wind load rating. The 6mm twinwall polycarbonate covering offers an R-Factor of 1.55 which is only 0.02 less than 8mm coverings and comes with the same 10 year warranty. For these reasons and more, this "Junior" Series package is one of our most popular and will offer performance and reliability for generations. All Garden Grower Hobby Greenhouses are engineered to meet 70 mph wind and 10 pound live load per the UBC Building Code. Even higher load ratings and stamped engineered plans are available at extra cost. All galvanized steel frame insures maximum strength and life. Lexan twin-wall polycarbonate covering is UV resistant and carries a 10 year warranty against discoloration. The Garden Grower "Junior" Greenhouse Package uses the same steel components as utilized in our commercial structures. Prices include complete frame with 6mm polycarbonate twin-wall covering, (1) 3' x 6'-8" storm door, (1-2) Exhaust Fans, (1-2) Motorized Inlet Shutters, (1) Heating Thermostat, (1) Two Stage Cooling Stat, (1) Modine High Efficiency Gas Unit Heater (Natural Gas or Propane), (1-2) Horizontal Air Flow Fans, complete assembly instructions, and an electrical wiring diagram showing details of all equipment connections. Roof vent(s) are optional and can be ordered separately. Dennis Last edited by mtbigfish; February 10, 2010 at 04:49 PM. |
February 27, 2010 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: illinois
Posts: 15
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This fourm is a little old but I will post anyway. I built a pvc pipe hoophous this last fall. Over the winter the snow killed it the pips brok under pressure and snapped one by one. I would recommend if you get any snow at all to use steel hoops they might cost a little more at first but in the long run it will save you headache and repair cost.
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December 21, 2011 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: canada
Posts: 17
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greenhouse plans
This is one that I built, but extended it to 24', and you can keep on going if you like, as long as it is anchored on the base, hope this helps
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December 26, 2011 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Latrobe Pa.
Posts: 142
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I put up my third greenhouse. This one I put up this year turned out the best. I used 2 by 4's and flake boad with 6 mill plastic I made a A frame which is the strongest structure because its really a triangle on both ends! Its 12 by 16 and about 9 feet high in the center. The long wall facs the non day sun!
+++ There are many advantages to the A frame and here is one. The north side angled wall above the 6 foot heigth has a reflective material and I get 30% more light reflected because of the angle! I have about 500 gallons of water n 50 gallon drums and it has maintained plants with no additional heat even though the outside has been below 20! +++ Draw on on a paper and see the advantage. I cost less than $400. Another avantage is snow slides off quick and watr can be collected by using a gutter into several barrels . The insulated north side keeps the heat in nicely! You have one main area to cover with plastic and its easy!. Double plastic is the ticket! Use a 6 mill outside and a 3 mill inside for best light penetration! I even made a 7 foot loft and covered t with plastic above my head! In the summer I use the lot for storage!
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Frank the Bobberman & Carpet Installer Inventor of the Bobber With A Brain,. Gadening, Greenhouse, Fishing, Softball, Scrabble. Single looking for a woman with a 100 acre farm! Last edited by bobberman; December 26, 2011 at 11:44 PM. Reason: Word spacing |
December 28, 2011 | #12 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Maine (northeastern) USA
Posts: 53
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Quote:
A coldframe is a plant bed low to the ground with no heat other than the sun. It is primarily used for cold toreant plants such as pansies, cabbage and the such...or to "harden off" tender pernnials Then there is a hotbed...which is what you may want to try..... babylark A hotbed is a heated coldframe used often to start warm season veggies such as tomatoes. Although you will need good drainage and good light.... It is usually very effcient compared to using a hoophouse or greenhouse |
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December 28, 2011 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Latrobe Pa.
Posts: 142
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Alot of the hot beds are heated by a layer of fresh manure or some type of nitrogen mix like blood meal or urea buried a foot below the surface! The heat is given off for a few weeks at most and does add heat to the hot bed! The cold frame can also have a little heat added and a double plastic or double window cover will make it even warmer!
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Frank the Bobberman & Carpet Installer Inventor of the Bobber With A Brain,. Gadening, Greenhouse, Fishing, Softball, Scrabble. Single looking for a woman with a 100 acre farm! |
January 26, 2012 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: CT Zone 5
Posts: 186
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Design flaws in your build then. My PVC 12x16' is still standing proudly after last years winter it can take anything. Iwas extremely sick with chemo treatments so lets just say I was unable to help other than taking a broom to the ridge pole and covering myself chest deep in snow only to be do winded I could do anymore. If designed right PVC GH can stand up to some punishment foe sure. I'm still in disbelief. I'd save all those thousands of dollars and go PVC make sure your going to stick with it and you can always spend the cash later. Hobby Gardens and Gardeners Supply sell PVC kits designed for snowy climates and that is what I used as a model for mine. I beefed up certain sections, used no pvc glue and only used 5 elbows at the peak. It's a lot of work without a plan from scratch but well worth every second! Good luck with your choice!
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