Three sisters & companion planting

[mensplace]

Yesterday, after trying to determine the best support system for my peas and pole beans I finally went back to the idea of the old ways and planted Hickory King Corn. I already have some broad beans planting, but read that these are largely self supporting. I did throw in some sweet corn among the rows of Hickory King in hope that their short and spindly stalks might be support and have the benefit of a wind break provided by the 12 foot, heavy stalks of Hickory King. Hickory King can also be used for grits and corn meal. Had thought about indian corn, but read that they are more of a flour corn. Will put in the pole beans and butter beans later, as well as winter squash as the Hickory King stalks will last long after they have produced ears. Maybe even some tomatillo. These will all be started and ripen at different times, but those stalks should stand all summer.
Thanks to an ATTRA link provided by Carolyn long ago, I also got the idea for putting some beets between the cabbage. Will have to research other combinations for companion planning, but these combinations really maximize space and will help in the heat of the GA summer. Will also be planting LOTs of onions between and around the tomato plants and use them to mark both the rows and the perimeter of the garden. Some call Hickory King Hickory Cane. I have four long rows of the hickory King and will be planting only a few of each of the squash, so may also use it for experimenting with cucumber. Too, it will provide a windbreak for the tomatoes. All will later go into the compost pile. Now to study that companion planting list some more as I find that the synergy, combined with soil shading really helps here like in the French intensive system. Also need to further investigate the Bt as I read there are many varities and even different manufactures with the same genric name like DIPEL and DiPel. Somehow, I thought that as a bacterium it only needed to be applied once to "innoculate" the soil...apparently not the case as some recommend repeated applications. Also need to study Rhizobia as that too seems to require different types for different legumes. At least that only needs one application. Swiss chard seems to be mighty popular now. It's a shame that I despise the acrid taste. Seems that with the strength of giant sunflower and tall okra that those too could be used as climbing stalks. Springitis has REALLY hit as I see new green popping up every day, but still holding out to plant my tomatoes. Onions, rhubarb, lettuce and many other varieties are jumping out of the ground in this 70 degree weather.

[VGary]

You may find some good information here. I don't think I have ever seen such documentation as this. I have not found a reference to tomatoes here but I could have overlooked it since there is so much information.

I wanted to share this link which if you are interested in the agricultural practices of long ago will amaze you. Makes for very good reading with illustrations and a few pictures. Enjoy!
Gary


Buffalo Bird Woman's Garden
Agriculture of the Hidatsa Indians: An Interpretation.

This is a most amazing account of the life of the Bird Woman and the agricultural practices

http://digital.library.upenn.edu/wom...en/garden.html



Link to Renee's Garden.
http://www.reneesgarden.com/articles/3sisters.html


Another Link on growing a Three Sisters Garden
http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/t...238014436.html


Bloody Butcher Corn is well over 100 years old and may be used in the Three Sisters Garden.

Turkey Craw would be an excellent bean for you to consider growing. It has a heritage that goes back well over 100 years and it looks very unusual with the appaloosa speckling.

Squash is a bit tougher. The plain old butternut is about as good as it gets for making a good crop that is relatively worry free and has a heritage well over 100 years.

[mensplace]

Fascinating reading! I DO want to read all of the articles! I will be using the corn ears for roasting and maybe grind some for corn meal and grits. I read somewhere that most Indian corn that we know today is more of a flour corn of the type that would be used for tamales, tortillas, and corn breads. My primary use of the Hickory King will be for the stalks which are very sturdy and tall. Thanks SO much. Clarence Walker

Originally Posted by VGary

You may find some good information here. I don't think I have ever seen such documentation as this. I have not found a reference to tomatoes here but I could have overlooked it since there is so much information.

I wanted to share this link which if you are interested in the agricultural practices of long ago will amaze you. Makes for very good reading with illustrations and a few pictures. Enjoy!
Gary


Buffalo Bird Woman's Garden
Agriculture of the Hidatsa Indians: An Interpretation.

This is a most amazing account of the life of the Bird Woman and the agricultural practices

http://digital.library.upenn.edu/wom...en/garden.html



Link to Renee's Garden.
http://www.reneesgarden.com/articles/3sisters.html


Another Link on growing a Three Sisters Garden
http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/t...238014436.html


Bloody Butcher Corn is well over 100 years old and may be used in the Three Sisters Garden.

Turkey Craw would be an excellent bean for you to consider growing. It has a heritage that goes back well over 100 years and it looks very unusual with the appaloosa speckling.

Squash is a bit tougher. The plain old butternut is about as good as it gets for making a good crop that is relatively worry free and has a heritage well over 100 years.

[b54red]

Two plants that I have found to be very good companion plants are bush beans and cucumbers. I usually grow a small fence of cucs with a row of bush beans I like the small French style beans. Both plants have always done great when planted near each other for me.
As for Dipel dust you have to reapply it after every rain or overhead watering. It works great on most worms but not all. I had a worm hit my tomatoes last year that it had no effect on. Had to go to Sevin to finally rid myself of them; but by that time they had bored holes in most of my early tomatoes and even into the tomato stems. I have never seen these worms before. They were small pale green, thin, lopper type worms, and they bored into whatever part of the tomato plant they could and were the most destructive worm I have seen. I had to throw away hundreds of small green tomatoes and most were from varieties that don't set fruit well in the heat so I ended up with some big plants with no fruit. The first time I see that small hole in one of my babies the Sevin is coming out and the Dipel will be retiring until they are gone.

[BlackestKrim]

I was thinking of doing 3 sisters planting as well. Also, was going to grow corn on one edge of garden to shade other plants from the afternoon sun.

I was talking to someone from A&M Agricultural extension about how I was having trouble finding info about scientific validation of companion planting. (This is mostly in regard to pest help- physical benefits and nitrogen fixing are well known.) She told me that the phrase commonly used to describe it was "integrated pest management," and the plants that provide the protection are called "host" plants.

I thought that might be useful to anyone interested in companion planting.

You can find lots of websites on companion planting that all have the same lists, but it's hard to find out why it helps. Some basics are described- marigolds deter harmful nematodes, for example. For the most part, however, there is no explanation.

[happydog]

I'm planning on doing 3 sisters this year too. From what I've read, the mistake most people make is using crops that are supposed to be harvested when ripe. The original was done with (late) field corn, pole beans and pumpkins which you let stand until dry.

Meaning you don't go in and do multiple harvesting of your beans and squash. You just wait till everything's dried down and the foliage is dead or dying. So you'd have to use corn you want to use dry, dried beans, and squash or pumpkin that you can leave alone until late fall.

Then you just go in and harvest everything at once. Dried corn, dried beans, and cured pumpkins. Because of the squash/pumpkin growing everywhere you can't get in to weed or pick, so you just let it go till harvest.

Ok, I don't have a problem with that, I need dried corn to feed my animals and make corn meal out of. I love dried beans, and I need a lot of pumpkins/squash to feed the animals.

But, what if you live where there's a lot of rain in the fall and you need to bring things inside before they mold? Was 3 sisters a great technique out west where it doesn't rain in fall, but not so great in the east?

Also, I just found out the pumpkins I was planning to use (Connecticut Field) are c. pepo which are bug and disease magnets especially in an organic garden, but c. moschatas or c. mixtas are comparatively trouble free.

I'd love to hear anybody's opinions BEFORE I make these mistakes.

[VGary]

This will be my first growing experience on a Three Sisters Garden. I don't have an answer to all your questions, I wish I did. I do know that the Beans will produce more if picked when they have matured. Harvesting them means that you can eat them fresh or dry them separately. Most of the corn varieties (more than one variety) grew a minimum number of ears but I am sure these were harvested at various stages. The information on Buffalo Bird Woman's narrative indicated they processed the corn in different ways roasted, dried, and ground for saving. Remember they were growing for the present, growing for the winter months and also growing for seed saving and kept a two year supply of seed in case of crop failure.
Gary