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Old December 31, 2017   #61
taboule
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WRT using 4ft shop lights, I think they're a good value except for the cheap and wimpy chains that come with them. Too lightweight and hard to handle if you want to adjust them. Put them aside and get some bigger linked chain (doesn't have to be heavy) that takes the chore out of raising/lowering the lights. Even a rope/cord may be better.
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Old December 31, 2017   #62
Worth1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taboule View Post
WRT using 4ft shop lights, I think they're a good value except for the cheap and wimpy chains that come with them. Too lightweight and hard to handle if you want to adjust them. Put them aside and get some bigger linked chain (doesn't have to be heavy) that takes the chore out of raising/lowering the lights. Even a rope/cord may be better.
I have window weight/sash cord and pulleys on mine with dog chain I bought off the bulk reel.
Does anybody remember window weights?

Worth
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Old December 31, 2017   #63
encore
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yup use them for anchors in my canoe. lol
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Old December 31, 2017   #64
taboule
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Worth1 View Post
I have window weight/sash cord and pulleys on mine with dog chain I bought off the bulk reel.
Does anybody remember window weights?

Worth
Ooooh yes. The house I just sold (circa ~1870) had well over 20 old windows with that mechanism and the wavy glass. I rehabbed what I could (over half), new cords, new unpainted median strips, de-rusted and lubed the pulleys, re-glazed some of the sashes, and weather-proofed the cavities. Then added storm windows to the outside. Big job, never again.

Some antique/period places around here re-claim old sashes and restoration folks pay big bucks for them.

Last edited by taboule; January 1, 2018 at 07:12 AM.
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Old January 1, 2018   #65
throwaway
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Curious how to find the quality LEDs. Everything on Amazon seems to have shoddy QA, burn out quickly, and sometimes burn. HD seems like a coin flip. What about DIY with solderless Cree LEDs? I found a few sites that sell kits w/ driver, heatsink, connections, adhesive. Looks expensive, but I guess you can verify your own work?

https://reefledlights.com/product-category/leds/
https://www.rapidled.com/
https://www.ledgroupbuy.com/index.php
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Old January 1, 2018   #66
Cole_Robbie
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I don't know if they sell components, but Kessil is a quality brand. They make nice stuff: http://kessil.com/

Seedlings certainly aren't picky enough about light spectrum to need LEDs - I think CFLs do a fine job - but the LEDs are still cool nonetheless.
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Old January 1, 2018   #67
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Wrong thread.
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Old February 9, 2018   #68
biscuitridge
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I use Cree cxb 3590 leds, they work very good and are less expensive to operate, cheaper than T-5 and better spectrum for plants,also last longer and don't lose light output like t-5s. Very easy to assemble,also dimmable.
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Old February 17, 2018   #69
Durgan
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Default 5 April 2017 LED light

http://durgan.org/2017/April%202017/...%20light/HTML/ 5 April 2017 LED light

Four growing containers were made to facilitate small plant growth. There is room for six pots in each bucket for a total of 24 which is a reasonable amount for a home grower. Various seeds are started and grown to a reasonable size prior to placing in outdoor garden about May 25. Experimentation indicates the light is adequate for the purpose indicated, precluding much more expensive lights. Main advantage being very little heat is produced by LED lights.

Details of construction. The parts used were obtained locally 22 liter bucket beverage trade, 110 volt fan ordered off the internet, LED lamp from the local hardware store. lamp fitting a trouble lamp cord and socket. Vent holes and fan hole were made using a soldering iron and melting the plastic as required. Approximate cost: bucket $3.00, fan $25.00,LED Lamp $40.00,lamp electrical fitting $12.00. Total cost ~$80.00.They should last several years. Power consumption LED and fan is about 35 watts.

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Old February 20, 2018   #70
bower
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The best deal I could find on LED fixtures was Costco - got two and really like them.

As for the fluorescent fixtures, I ended up taking them apart to see if there was a way to secure the sockets in place on the inside. And indeed I found the sockets had a groove in them below the little 'flaps' they were resting on - those grooves fit perfectly tight with the metal tabs in the fixture. Reassembled, they are now a snug fit for any T8 bulb, and should be safe.

Unfortunately two of the fixtures already had "scorched" sockets - those will have to be replaced. I've been told that it is fairly common and that they don't usually catch fire nonetheless.

I looked into LED replacement bulbs but couldn't get anything reasonable locally. HD had a 'plug and play' Phillips LED T8 in 3000 K only, at about $12 each which would be okay although twice the price of fluorescents. They had a T12 in 6500 K but $16 each, getting up to 3X the price per fixture and nearly enough to buy something new and integrated. And the Phillips bulbs only work WITH an instant start ballast, a lot of fixtures won't take em and once the ballast goes, the bulbs are no good either.

I think the best LED bulbs available today, also the best buys, are ballast bypass. There are good deals on Amazon for bulk purchase, but I don't have the cash to do it now. You have to rewire the fixture take out the ballast, and I'm okay with that but it's a project for maybe next year. The price is still pretty close to the cost of new integrated fixtures if you buy multiple units, so I'll be thinking hard about how to best squander my cash on plants. Again.
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