garden lime

[jpop]

Originally Posted by PureHarvest

Jpop, just remember, pH does not tell you the whole story.
It's like using a thermometer to diagnose why you don't feel well.

Patient: "Dr., I took my temperature reading. It was 100 degrees. What do I have?"
Dr: "I have no way of knowing without more info. Your temp reading is a symptom, not a cause."

So, a pH test can be helpful, because it will tell you if you are waaaaay out of whack to clue you in on a nutrient imbalance, but you will still be left wondering what that actually is.
You can't just assume that a pH below 6.5 will need limestone. Then I would ask you what type of limestone will you need, dolomitic (lots of Mg with the C), or calcitic (little Mg with the C)? Are you gonna use calcium nitrate?
Then their is your source water. Look at Worth's example earlier with high calcium water...

Thank you Pure. I see a lot about BER and most likely caused w/ PH imbalance not allowing sufficient calcium, even when present in high quantities, which is why I asked about a handheld reliable PH meter. Where do you send your soil for analysis?

[PureHarvest]

Agrolab in Harrington Delaware.
I like soluble forms of cal. Like what you'd find in a greenhouse grade calcium nitrate that dissolves completely in water. No worries about availability. Ready to go into the roots/plant.

[PureHarvest]

But I havent sampled in 2 years as I use a sterile soilless mix in grow bags and add soluble nutrients at each watering.
The in ground growing I do is for other veggies and some fruit, and there I toss down one of the espoma tones and drip feed cal nitrate along the way very lightly. I am due to test. I don't till and do cover cropping spring and fall and cut that and layer it down, move it aside at planting, then push it back to cover. The worms find that mat of matter and go nuts. The soil is rich and mellow underneath and the soil is never bare year round.
I get good yields and am happy.
With the tomatoes I am all about precision including doing leaf samples.

[jpop]

Originally Posted by PureHarvest

But I havent sampled in 2 years as I use a sterile soilless mix in grow bags and add soluble nutrients at each watering.
The in ground growing I do is for other veggies and some fruit, and there I toss down one of the espoma tones and drip feed cal nitrate along the way very lightly. I am due to test. I don't till and do cover cropping spring and fall and cut that and layer it down, move it aside at planting, then push it back to cover. The worms find that mat of matter and go nuts. The soil is rich and mellow underneath and the soil is never bare year round.
I get good yields and am happy.
With the tomatoes I am all about precision including doing leaf samples.

What do you use for soluble nutrients and how much?

[PureHarvest]

Hydro-gardens Chemgro
4-18-38 use 8 ounces (dry weight)
Calcium nitrate 8 ounces
Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) 4 ounces
When using on mature plants, per the instructions, you would use these rates to make 100 gallons of solution.
I then pump this solution through a 1/2 poly line that has tubes tapped into it that go to spray stakes. They spray the solution onto the top of the soil in the bag long enough to get just a tad to trickle out the bottom of the bag. This gets repeated 6-8 times per day.

[jpop]

Originally Posted by PureHarvest

Hydro-gardens Chemgro
4-18-38 use 8 ounces (dry weight)
Calcium nitrate 8 ounces
Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) 4 ounces
When using on mature plants, per the instructions, you would use these rates to make 100 gallons of solution.
I then pump this solution through a 1/2 poly line that has tubes tapped into it that go to spray stakes. They spray the solution onto the top of the soil in the bag long enough to get just a tad to trickle out the bottom of the bag. This gets repeated 6-8 times per day.

Thank you for sharing

[PureHarvest]

Sure thing
If you ever get a soil test result and want some help interpreting it, just hit me up.

[jpop]

Originally Posted by PureHarvest

Sure thing
If you ever get a soil test result and want some help interpreting it, just hit me up.

Funny you should ask. Find my local lab extension site today. Will let you know, again I really appreciate it as this is all new to me.

[PureHarvest]

Originally Posted by jpop

Funny you should ask. Find my local lab extension site today. Will let you know, again I really appreciate it as this is all new to me.

Totally cool.
I love this stuff and am always learning. I don't know everything but find that I learn more when I help people seek than when I go it alone.
Drop me a line or post somewhere and we will figure it out.
I'm not a doctor but I'll take a look

[jpop]

Sounds good. Will do

[Ricky Shaw]

Be aware on the Hydro-Gardens ChemGro, the ppm recommendations are based on the Truncheon .70 conversion and not the more typical Hanna .50 conversion. They do list the EC values in mhos, which is nice cause most products don't, then you don't even worry what the conversion factor is.

[jpop]

Does this mean it can be over applied

[PureHarvest]

Assuming your source water is not loaded with elements, if you follow the rates i posted from their instructions, you would not be overdoing it.
The total dissolved solids in your water can change the total in your final solution.
Your pH adjusting material, if you need it, can do the same, so testing your final solution with a meter will tell you how far off the mark you are.
Travis' comment is key if, so you need to consider your brand of meter or what units you are using.

[PureHarvest]

For example, my source water, from a well, is very low in TDS at 50 ppm.
I have to add potassium hydroxide to raise the pH 1 point. This adds to the nutrient load before I add the three fertilizers. However, when I follow the instructions, my mhos for the total solution is right on.

[roper2008]

Originally Posted by dfollett

I was going to start a thread with a question about Garden lime, but thanks, I'll piggyback here. I use it in peat mixes for containers. I understand it's purpose - to reduce the acidity of the mix - especially to help control BER.

Now my question : Do you need to add lime to a peat based mix that will be used for potting up and growing seedlings to the point they are ready to plant out or put into a larger pot? Do you need it when you are not going to grow to the fruit stage in the mix? Does the acidity harm the basic plant at that stage?

Actually, that was three questions, but thanks for the answers.

I use pro-mix for my seedlings. I don't use any lime until they go into their permanent
home in the spring, usually in containers.