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Old 5 Days Ago   #1
MuddyBuckets
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Default Chlorosis in plants

The leaves on my overwintering peppers and avocado are showing signs of what I believe is chlorosis. The new leaves are turning light green to yellow with the leaf veins staying a darker green.

"Symptoms - As mentioned above, interveinal chlorosis is a yellowing of the leaves that only occurs on leaves where the veins still have chlorophyll. Chlorosis of the whole leaf is a nitrogen deficiency and is easily treated."

Any suggestions as to ferts or supplements will be appreciated. Some available information suggests a product such as Ironite or a high N fert will help with the chlorophyll production.
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Old 5 Days Ago   #2
bower
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Liquid fish fert is my go to for a N boost to potted plants. Peppers seem to have a greater need for Mg as well - they've always enjoyed a bit of epsom salts.
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Old 5 Days Ago   #3
SeanInVa
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Iron would be a good guess as to what you are missing based on your observed symptoms.

Are you fertilizing at all? If you are, and you still have this issue then you may want to check your soil pH as non-neutral pH can cause nutrient-uptake issues. If you have not been regularly fertilizing, then this could just mean you need a good, complete, fertilizer application - and not necessarily one with an over-abundance of iron.
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Old 5 Days Ago   #4
Nan_PA_6b
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Check to see if you have fungus gnats- tiny dark flying bugs, maybe low on the plant. Their larvae can damage roots & cause paleness. Do the affected plants use less water than the healthy ones? Gnatrol works for me.
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Old 5 Days Ago   #5
MuddyBuckets
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Thanks for the suggestions. 1) no fungus gnats, 2) fertilize sparingly with 50% diluted TomatoTone, 3) will add Epsom Salt to fert solution (I have neglected to do this). Plants seem healthy otherwise although they do need more light. Plan on them under my grow lights in mid-December when I setup my seed starting.
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Old 5 Days Ago   #6
MissS
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All of the above advise is good. Your plan of action sounds good and the plants should perk up soon. One other cause could be too wet, so just watch out for over watering too.
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Old 5 Days Ago   #7
KarenO
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When mature leaves are not affected, the more likely cause of interveinal Chlorosis in new leaves is iron deficiency. Nitrogen and magnesium deficiency will show in mature leaves first.
The problem may not strictly be a lack of iron although use of an all purpose fertilizer containing micronutrients should fix the problem if that is the case. pH of the planting medium can make it difficult for the plant to utilize available nutrients,iron being particulary problematic if the pH is alkaline or even neutral for example. a foliar spray of something as simple as miracle grow all purpose with micronutrients should do the trick in that case. or alternately a foliar spray of ferrous sulphate but that is likely a hassle just for a couple of overwintering peppers. Really, is the goal to grow peppers or to just keep them going, not to look perfect and produce? If so maybe just not to worry too much and prune them back so they don't have to work so hard in low indoor light. increase fertilizing when the light is better toward spring. All depends on your goals.
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Old 18 Hours Ago   #8
b54red
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When I have a plant showing those symptoms I mix a chelated iron powder in water with a dash of dish washing soap. I use one that is 7% iron so it only takes about a half a teaspoon to a quart hand sprayer. I then apply it to the tops and bottoms of the leaves especially the new leaves in a fine mist. I wait a day or two and then reapply and when the leaves darken I cease the treatment. If the yellowing is fairly bad it can take over a week to return the plants to a healthy color. If the new growth is just starting to yellow a bit once will usually do it.

I also apply a solution of vinegar and water from and ounce to a gallon to three ounces to a gallon of water and soak the soil. This can temporarily acidify the soil enough to release some nutrients that are bound due to high PH. I do this almost every year with my pepper plants to release more iron and phosphorous.

I also agree with adding a bit of Epsom salts. Even though my soil sample says I have more than plenty when I give each plant a spoonful of Epsom salts every month or so they produce larger peppers.

I quit overwintering peppers years ago due to it getting just cold enough that they have to come inside for a few months and the aphids just suck the life out of them.

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Old 17 Hours Ago   #9
SQWIBB
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Cold roots warm leaves can be an issue, something to do with transpiration.
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