Pink Berkerly Tie Dye wonderfully taste

[FILMNET]

I have grown the original BTD for many years,thought i would try these this year. Really great taste

[b54red]

I grow it every year and it is also a great fall tomato because it will ripen better in the cool weather than some of the other black tomatoes. It is also a fairly heavy producer but it has one big weakness. It is very susceptible to gray mold which can destroy it fairly quickly if it isn't treated.

Bill

[FILMNET]

Ive got gray mold on a few plants now, this is my first garden here in south. Only 2 fruits also, my plants in the ground did not grown big at all. Only cherry's in pots

[drew51]

I'm going to grow this one next year. I have never seen gray mold here. Even so, I watch them closely. I have just about every fungicide made, so will use if I have to. I grow fruit trees, why i have so many. Actually you need three or four, and those take care of all problems I have with trees (peach leaf curl, scab, brown rot, bacterial spot, etc). Many are rated for use on tomatoes.

[z_willus_d]

Drew, care to disclose the products you use, the application regiment, and reason why?

BTW, I too am a fan of the acidic taste of PBTD

[drew51]

Originally Posted by z_willus_d

Drew, care to disclose the products you use, the application regiment, and reason why?

Originally Posted by z_willus_d

BTW, I too am a fan of the acidic taste of PBTD

Well with tomatoes I like to make sure I don't get any blights. I pay attention to regional reports. Like right now in the south late blight has been appearing.
So to be safe even though in the north I use chlorothalonil every 10 days. This will stop early and late blight, and gray mold too. All I'm using at present on tomatoes. I also use this product for peach leaf curl in late fall, late winter, and possibly a third application before bud break. Since all fruit buds died from winter kill, my peaches only got one application of Monterey Fungi Fighter to stop any brown rot. Also used Captan as I need it for Gray mold with strawberries, which is a problem here, so I hit the trees sometimes (prevents scab), if early enough. Captan will also stop peach leaf curl. Currently for chlorothalonil application I'm using Bonide's Fungonil. Also Diaconal is the same product.
To help prevent canker in cherries I use copper in late winter/early spring. I use lime sulfur on my brambles as a preventative before flowers appear.

I see you are in Sacramento. many of these problems are problems mostly seen on the East coast. For tips about the west coast I would talk to Farmer Fred, whom has a radio show, and also Don Shorr whom also has a radio show, both out of California. Both grow fruit trees, and tomatoes. Don makes sauce every year. Don read one of my emails on air before. Farmer Fred has emailed me back. Good guys!

Don Shorr out of Davis CA
http://davisgardenshow.com/

Farmer Fred is on KFBK Sacramento radio. Unsure of contact info?
He announces it on his shows.
http://www.kfbk.com/media/podcast-th...ow-FarmerFred/

Also
http://www.kste.com/media/podcast-ge...ng-FarmerFred/

[nordicnacho]

Originally Posted by drew51

Well with tomatoes I like to make sure I don't get any blights. I pay attention to regional reports. Like right now in the south late blight has been appearing.
So to be safe even though in the north I use chlorothalonil every 10 days. This will stop early and late blight, and gray mold too. All I'm using at present on tomatoes. I also use this product for peach leaf curl in late fall, late winter, and possibly a third application before bud break. Since all fruit buds died from winter kill, my peaches only got one application of Monterey Fungi Fighter to stop any brown rot. Also used Captan as I need it for Gray mold with strawberries, which is a problem here, so I hit the trees sometimes (prevents scab), if early enough. Captan will also stop peach leaf curl. Currently for chlorothalonil application I'm using Bonide's Fungonil. Also Diaconal is the same product.
To help prevent canker in cherries I use copper in late winter/early spring. I use lime sulfur on my brambles as a preventative before flowers appear.

I see you are in Sacramento. many of these problems are problems mostly seen on the East coast. For tips about the west coast I would talk to Farmer Fred, whom has a radio show, and also Don Shorr whom also has a radio show, both out of California. Both grow fruit trees, and tomatoes. Don makes sauce every year. Don read one of my emails on air before. Farmer Fred has emailed me back. Good guys!

Don Shorr out of Davis CA
http://davisgardenshow.com/

Farmer Fred is on KFBK Sacramento radio. Unsure of contact info?
He announces it on his shows.
http://www.kfbk.com/media/podcast-th...ow-FarmerFred/

Also
http://www.kste.com/media/podcast-ge...ng-FarmerFred/

awesome thanks for sharing

[z_willus_d]

Yep. Thanks for passing on the links and your regiment. I'm just getting into fruit trees after having focused on garden vegetables over the past several years. It's a new arena for me, so I'm keeping an ear open for all I can learn.

I'll check out the shows.
-naysen

[drew51]

Originally Posted by z_willus_d

Yep. Thanks for passing on the links and your regiment. I'm just getting into fruit trees after having focused on garden vegetables over the past several years. It's a new arena for me, so I'm keeping an ear open for all I can learn.

I'll check out the shows.
-naysen

Brown rot is not much of a problem for you guys, but peach leaf curl is. Copper can be used if you want to stay as organic as possible. If growing peaches.
I Listen to the podcasts, so an listen at my convenience. I grow some Zaiger genetics fruit trees out of California. So like to listen to what's going on there. Fred recently had Tom Spellman on, who works for Dave Wilson Nurseries who distribute the Zaiger trees.