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Forum area for discussing hybridizing tomatoes in technical terms and information pertinent to trait/variety specific long-term (1+ years) growout projects.

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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #16
charley
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Ok my f2 are going good all plants look simular but the fruits are starting to show Variances.most are all solid green not ripe yet but the ones in the pic are striped but not yet ripe i wounded what they will turn out to be
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #17
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I grew 20 plants of the f2 this is the first one to ripen.its a yellow with green stripes.i never expected a yellow.the taste was good for a yellow but i don't think I will Pursue this line..I'm using this place just to keep up with my results.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #18
KarenO
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There’s a milkman in the mix. For sure one or both of the original parents was a cross.
Not necessarily a bad thing because sometimes accident produce great results but it’s unlikely you will find what you originally wanted.
Keep going and see what you get or back to the drawing board with a new cross.
Personally as an amateur I’m not a back crosser as I am not scientific enough , for physical, visible characteristics I just grow lots of plants and select. For example, potato leaf. Just grow out lots (100) of your F2 seed and cull ALL that are not pl right off the bat if PL is a trait you want. now grow out as many of only the F2 PL as you have room for, more is better and look for the recessive combination you are seeking. If you find it in your F2 you are all set and all that remains is to stabilize it by growing it out 5-6 more times and carefully selecting for the best. If you don’t find what you want, you have three choices, throw in the towel and make a new and different cross, back cross hoping to improve the odds or grow out another batch of F2 seeds and hope for better luck. For myself in this instance I would change my goal or make a new cross.
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Breeding for recessive physical traits is fairly easy in that once expressed they are fixed. Breeding specifically for subtle traits like disease resistance etc is way more complex.

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Old 1 Week Ago   #19
WhippoorwillG
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I agree with KarenO. If you started 20 and none are PL, then something is amiss.

A PL crossed to an F1 that has a PL parent should throw PL plants at about 50%. There is almost no chance that you got zero out of 20.

There have been a lot of helpful responses, but if you aren't happy with your results, this is the best advice if you back up to the F2s, assuming you are still convinced the original cross was correctly labeled:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fusion_power View Post
Charlie, in the cross you mention, it is simple to do the selection needed. Grow the F1 plant from crossing a PL pink to a RL Gwr. Save the seed and then grow a boat load of F2's the next season. Keep only the PL seedlings. By growing only the PL F2's, you can pre-select and focus effort on finding the recessive color combination. Set out at least 32 of the PL plants and 1 or 2 of them should be a nice Gwr tomato. There will be a few other Gwr's among them, but not so good flavored so you can cull them.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #20
charley
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Ok I'm not shure if they are potatoe leaf or not they are not as big as the ones on my brandywine plants you tell me if they are potatoe leaf
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Old 1 Week Ago   #21
Nan_PA_6b
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That looks potato leaf to me. There are different types of potato leaf, so if it doesn't look exactly like the parent, that's ok. There are no serrations on the edges, like you'd find in a regular leaf.

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Old 1 Week Ago   #22
charley
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Thanks Nan I didn't know there was different types of potato leaf.i just compared it to the Brandywine and they are differant. But now that you say that I don't think earl faux has a perfect Brandywine potato leaf eather.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #23
KarenO
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I see mostly RL in that photo.
Even smooth serrations are still serrations.
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