"cleansing" contaminated soil

jenniedhs · August 29, 2011

In early spring I prepared the holes for my tomato plants by digging in bagged manure, compost and some fertilizer into 12" x 12" deep holes. All tomatoes exhibited signs of 2-4D herbicide damage. A NCDA inspector came and ruled out any drift from 2-4D and thought it was rather aminopyralid contaminated manure as two successive plantings had the same damage. (A bioassay was basically done) This is the only spot in my backyard that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight. I read somewhere that turning over the soil will hasten the breakdown of this herbicide. Do you think if I remove all of the dirt in the holes this fall and some beyond the original holes and replace with good soil and then till the entire bed this will "cleanse" the soil for next spring?

Thank you for any suggestions.
Jennie

**mdvpc** · August 29, 2011

Jennie

I can't answer your direct question since I only grow in containers. But I can suggest possibly using containers with potting soil until your contamination is dissipated.

Keiththibodeaux · August 29, 2011

Use a good bio stimulator. Till in good carbon sources into the soil, and humic acid. Keep it watered so it won't dry out.

I have used this product with excellent result. http://www.hortsorb.com/DIEHARD_BioRush.asp

A little goes a long way.

habitat_gardener · August 29, 2011

Here's a web site that discusses what to do
http://www.the-compost-gardener.com/picloram.html

Keiththibodeaux · August 29, 2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by habitat_gardener

Here's a web site that discusses what to do
http://www.the-compost-gardener.com/picloram.html

Thank you for this information.

Keith

jenniedhs · August 30, 2011

Thank you both.
Jennie

travis · August 30, 2011

I used aminopyralid contaminated manure once in 2009, and it affected one area of my garden to the point of destroying a few tomato plants and causing severe leaf curl and blossom death in a few more. Luckily it did not carry over into 2010. I do add compost and till it in each winter, but I'm guessing the contaminated manure I used in 2009 had aged past the critical half life, because I understand that aminopyralid can affect tomatoes for up to 3 or 4 years.

jenniedhs · August 30, 2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by travis

I used aminopyralid contaminated manure once in 2009, and it affected one area of my garden to the point of destroying a few tomato plants and causing severe leaf curl and blossom death in a few more. Luckily it did not carry over into 2010. I do add compost and till it in each winter, but I'm guessing the contaminated manure I used in 2009 had aged past the critical half life, because I understand that aminopyralid can affect tomatoes for up to 3 or 4 years.

Hopefully, I will have your luck! I'm going to remove as much of the contaminated soil as possible this fall, add new soil, compost and manure. Read the article about "Diehard", Keith do you apply this as a soil drench? In early spring I will plant peas
in the area as the article suggested using as a bioassay before the tomatoes go in. If the peas show symptoms, I guess I will end up container gardening. Thank you for all of your input.

fortyonenorth · August 30, 2011

Jennie -

Are you familiar with the effects of calcium and magnesium on the soil? Calcium will loosen or "open up" the soil whereas magnesium will make it much tighter. I would suggest getting a soil test to determine the "base saturation percentage" of your soil. This will tell you precisely how much calcium and magnesium you have (in addition to other macro and micro nutrients). Not all labs to a base saturation test, so make sure you find one that does - I use Logan Labs in Ohio.

The reason I make this recommendation is that, in your situation, it's critically important to have enough calcium so that the soil can let go of contaminants. If you have too much magnesium, it will hold tight and you'll have a very difficult time ridding yourself of them. Typically you need around 65% calcium. You might even want to go to 70 or 75% in the short term, until you're sure the soil is clear.

jenniedhs · August 30, 2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by fortyonenorth

Jennie -

Are you familiar with the effects of calcium and magnesium on the soil? Calcium will loosen or "open up" the soil whereas magnesium will make it much tighter. I would suggest getting a soil test to determine the "base saturation percentage" of your soil. This will tell you precisely how much calcium and magnesium you have (in addition to other macro and micro nutrients). Not all labs to a base saturation test, so make sure you find one that does - I use Logan Labs in Ohio.

The reason I make this recommendation is that, in your situation, it's critically important to have enough calcium so that the soil can let go of contaminants. If you have too much magnesium, it will hold tight and you'll have a very difficult time ridding yourself of them. Typically you need around 65% calcium. You might even want to go to 70 or 75% in the short term, until you're sure the soil is clear.

Excellent suggestion. I should probably get the soil analyzed before amending it this fall. I did not know the effects of calcium and magnesium, thank you. The NCAD inspector gave me the names of a number of labs in my area. I will call these to see if any do the base saturation percentage test. Thank you.

swamper · August 30, 2011

fortyone: calcium and magnesium both cause floculation of soil particles, so the contaminants within the flocs would be less exposed to weathering or oxidation, not more as you suggest, for most loamy soils. If your soil is clayey you've got bigger problems dispersing anything.

sodium acts to disperse soil particles, but it would not be wise or prudent to add sodium to soil to hasten weathering or oxidation of an organic contaminant. the best way to enhance oxidation is with organic matter and plentiful microbial activity as others have suggested.

fortyonenorth · August 31, 2011

I'm not arguing against the organic matter approach. My suggestion is to make sure there is enough C to permit free movement through the soil so that weathering (e.g. rain) will help disperse and carry-off the contaminants. Unless C is 60% or higher, this won't happen and the soil with have to rely solely on oxidation.

I'm not familiar with how tightly this specific contaminant is bound to the soil colloids, but I've seen the calcium approach used for salt and oil contamination.

Quote:

Originally Posted by swamper

fortyone: calcium and magnesium both cause floculation of soil particles, so the contaminants within the flocs would be less exposed to weathering or oxidation, not more as you suggest, for most loamy soils. If your soil is clayey you've got bigger problems dispersing anything.

sodium acts to disperse soil particles, but it would not be wise or prudent to add sodium to soil to hasten weathering or oxidation of an organic contaminant. the best way to enhance oxidation is with organic matter and plentiful microbial activity as others have suggested.

August 29, 2011	#1
jenniedhs Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: West Chester, Ohio Posts: 21	"cleansing" contaminated soil In early spring I prepared the holes for my tomato plants by digging in bagged manure, compost and some fertilizer into 12" x 12" deep holes. All tomatoes exhibited signs of 2-4D herbicide damage. A NCDA inspector came and ruled out any drift from 2-4D and thought it was rather aminopyralid contaminated manure as two successive plantings had the same damage. (A bioassay was basically done) This is the only spot in my backyard that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight. I read somewhere that turning over the soil will hasten the breakdown of this herbicide. Do you think if I remove all of the dirt in the holes this fall and some beyond the original holes and replace with good soil and then till the entire bed this will "cleanse" the soil for next spring? Thank you for any suggestions. Jennie

August 29, 2011	#2
mdvpc Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 4,386	Jennie I can't answer your direct question since I only grow in containers. But I can suggest possibly using containers with potting soil until your contamination is dissipated. __________________ Michael

August 29, 2011	#3
Keiththibodeaux Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Louisiana Posts: 587	Use a good bio stimulator. Till in good carbon sources into the soil, and humic acid. Keep it watered so it won't dry out. I have used this product with excellent result. http://www.hortsorb.com/DIEHARD_BioRush.asp A little goes a long way.

August 29, 2011	#4
habitat_gardener Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: California Central Valley Posts: 2,540	Here's a web site that discusses what to do http://www.the-compost-gardener.com/picloram.html

August 30, 2011	#6
jenniedhs Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: West Chester, Ohio Posts: 21	Thank you both. Jennie

August 30, 2011	#7
travis Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Evansville, IN Posts: 2,984	I used aminopyralid contaminated manure once in 2009, and it affected one area of my garden to the point of destroying a few tomato plants and causing severe leaf curl and blossom death in a few more. Luckily it did not carry over into 2010. I do add compost and till it in each winter, but I'm guessing the contaminated manure I used in 2009 had aged past the critical half life, because I understand that aminopyralid can affect tomatoes for up to 3 or 4 years.

August 30, 2011	#9
fortyonenorth Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: NW Indiana Posts: 1,150	Jennie - Are you familiar with the effects of calcium and magnesium on the soil? Calcium will loosen or "open up" the soil whereas magnesium will make it much tighter. I would suggest getting a soil test to determine the "base saturation percentage" of your soil. This will tell you precisely how much calcium and magnesium you have (in addition to other macro and micro nutrients). Not all labs to a base saturation test, so make sure you find one that does - I use Logan Labs in Ohio. The reason I make this recommendation is that, in your situation, it's critically important to have enough calcium so that the soil can let go of contaminants. If you have too much magnesium, it will hold tight and you'll have a very difficult time ridding yourself of them. Typically you need around 65% calcium. You might even want to go to 70 or 75% in the short term, until you're sure the soil is clear.

August 30, 2011	#11
swamper Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2009 Location: CT Posts: 219	fortyone: calcium and magnesium both cause floculation of soil particles, so the contaminants within the flocs would be less exposed to weathering or oxidation, not more as you suggest, for most loamy soils. If your soil is clayey you've got bigger problems dispersing anything. sodium acts to disperse soil particles, but it would not be wise or prudent to add sodium to soil to hasten weathering or oxidation of an organic contaminant. the best way to enhance oxidation is with organic matter and plentiful microbial activity as others have suggested.