Discuss your tips, tricks and experiences growing and selling vegetables, fruits, flowers, plants and herbs.
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March 19, 2011 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Woodville, Texas
Posts: 520
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I learned a lot from that article, especially the part describing how the machine works - all the operators do is feed the transplants to a conveyor belt and the machine plants them at the correct spacing. I think there's been a lot of advancement since 1988 - fewer workers. In the article, a six-row machine takes 13 workers - the tractor driver and two on each row planter. Now they just have one operator on each row.
What I'm most interested in, though, is the nursery aspect of producing and handling the transplants. Thanks for the info. Jack |
March 19, 2011 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: St Charles, IL zone 5a
Posts: 142
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Sounds like a slime mold. Out of curiosity, over what time period did the damping off occur? Were the plants affected all at once or in (spreading) patches? I had a mysterious situation this past summer with some seedlings (not tomatoes) and I never really pinned down a diagnosis, but a slime mold attack was as close as I could get from observing the symptoms.
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March 19, 2011 | #18 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Dallas
Posts: 344
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I would not have believed you could do that with a plant that is not woody like roses or trees. Will keep an eye out and look. Walter |
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March 19, 2011 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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Starting hundreds of plants in Peat Pots and using Miracle Gro purchased at a big box store? @@puzzled@@
On that scale of growing, I'd use MetroMix 902 as it's an excellent product and plastic trays are a lot more predictable and reusable. Best of luck to you.
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March 19, 2011 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
Posts: 707
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Just a quick note on something I discovered years ago.
I found that left over bags of both seed starter and potting soil perform much better than freshly purchased bags. I now keep a good supply of both in my garden shed. (they do have to be kept dry). Also, when starting seeds, I find it does better to fill your trays a week or two before actually planting seeds and to keep them moist. I've been doing this for a few years now,combined with planting by the moon and have been more than pleased with the improved results. I've also found it useful to screen your potting soil, no matter what brand your using. I've found everything from old peatpots, stones, chunks of wood and pinebark, and even shards of glass and large metal flakes in the most popular potting soils. Careful screening beats a trip to the emergency room for stitches. Been there! Camo |
March 19, 2011 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Bordentown NJ
Posts: 32
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I had read elsewhere that Evans Vegetable Farm supplied bareroot tomato seedling. A Google search brought this info on their FAQ page:
http://www.evansvegetableplants.com/questions.html Does it seem that they germinate their seedlings in the field and pull them for shipment? On the subject of seed starting mix, I brought home a bag of MG seed starting (not potting) mix that I believe was infested with gnat eggs. After a couple of weeks gnats were crawling all over the seed tray. Too many gnats too soon to be coincidence. Could it be that the bags of mix sold from Home Depot, etc. are kept outside? They should be kept dry, as posted above. Now I get my seedling mix from a greenhouse supply store (Griffin's), where I'm pretty sure it is kept in a warehouse. |
March 19, 2011 | #22 | ||
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: field of dreams
Posts: 97
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Quote:
Having said that, I've never heard of any farmer who starts tomato in peat pots and uses miracle grow on any kind of scale. That's a new one I haven't heard yet. It's time and money intensive, and lacks finer control you need to start and maintain a large amount of seedlings. Quote:
I second that, I don't know why you wouldn't just get it from a distributor too, instead of a big box store - no matter who it is - just can't compete with the wholesale discount. No wonder it's a false economy anyway! Usually they are started in flats, seed drills/plug trays.soil blocks etc etc - tons of methods for a larger scale than a home gardener does. Mixes, dirt, peat is bought in bales or cubic yards. Even for a home gardener, it makes sense to just a buy a bale of starting mix etc. and keep it for next season or add the leftovers to the garden - much cheaper too. I would recommend that to anyone. |
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March 19, 2011 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Woodville, Texas
Posts: 520
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We don't start the plants in peat pots. We fill the pots with MG, stack them 50 to a tray and moisten them. Then we germinate the seed in a shallow container and, using tweezers, transplant the germinated seeds (before cotyledons are formed but with a long, delicate "tap" root -it has to have that root or it will die) into the small peat pots. It goes very fast - when the densely planted seeds sprout, I can fill a 50 pot tray in a matter of minutes. I loosen all the medium in the tray so they come-out real fast and easy and make an indentation in the peat pot to receive the thread-like root. I can transplant faster than a helper can fill peat pots - I'm waiting on another tray most the time! I think it's pretty efficient, labor-wise anyway
We'll use 12-15 large bags of MG for tomatoes every year. About $150 worth - and another $150 for a case of 4000 2x2 Jiffy pots. Our seed runs around $75 per M (1000) - a little less if we buy 5M. Pelleted seed won't hold-over to the next year, so we try to avoid it but sometimes have no choice. ***************** NisiNJ - They say the plants are FIELD-GROWN (I thought it is was all hydroponic). Sounds like they just pull them up and ship them bare root on UPS! They say, "might be slightly wilted on arrival" - I would imagine so!! I guess these plants will take a lot rougher handling than we realize! Thanks for the link - just curiosity on my part. Jack Last edited by JackE; March 19, 2011 at 07:26 PM. |
March 19, 2011 | #24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Collierville TN
Posts: 106
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I too believe in using hydrogen peroxide. I spray my starting mix, my seedlings, my raised beds where I plant my tomatoes and my plants several times during the season.
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I'm two days older than dirt and I like to play in it. |
March 19, 2011 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Abilene, TX zone 7
Posts: 1,478
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Ronny,
At what rate do you mix H2O2? Do you use the stuff from the pharmacy or something stronger? |
March 19, 2011 | #26 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Collierville TN
Posts: 106
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Quote:
Here is where I buy it. http://www.dfwx.com/goewebsite.htm?g...FaFk7AodywLN_g
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I'm two days older than dirt and I like to play in it. |
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March 20, 2011 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Woodville, Texas
Posts: 520
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Here's a cheap way to start a lot of seeds -
Cut about 2" off the bottom of a gallon milk jug. Drill a lot of small holes in the bottom of it and fill it with your medium of choice. Sprinkle about a hundred seeds on top and cover them with a LITTLE bit of medium. Then put about 2" of water in the sink or a flat pan, and carefully place the seeded jug-bottom in the water. It will float and gradually sink as it becomes saturated. When the top is wet, place it on a heat mat set at 85 degrees and put a piece of Saran Wrap over it to hold the moisture. It won't need more water. Check it in four days. But the 40 cell Prop-A-Matic I talked about earlier is the very best if you don't have to start large numbers and have a warm room and a light set-up of some kind. Jack |
March 21, 2011 | #28 | ||
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: St Charles, IL zone 5a
Posts: 142
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Quote:
Quote:
JackE, take a look at what these people have to offer. I like the 3B mix. They also make a specific seed germinating mix. I see what you mean about being in a small town, everything is 100 miles away! Sometimes it's just easier to stick with what you are familiar with. http://www.fafard.com/index.php?p=7&...tx&submit=Find (retailers) http://www.fafard.com/index.php?p=110 (products) sometimes nurseries carry these http://www.fafard.com/?p=2 (homepage) http://www.fafard.com/?p=204 Not sure of your territory, but give them a try- they should be able to lead you in the right direction. My rep was very helpful when I worked at the greenhouse. Of note, my mystery mold happened on plants growing homemade mix. |
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April 6, 2011 | #29 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: western Colorado zone 5
Posts: 307
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I have had a dozen tomato plants that were some left over from people planting a field. They did not have a transplanter and my boys worked for them setting a field of them. They are heavy stemed and trimed. But I have not seen it done. Waters them at the same time. I know are bare root. They grew and they cannery furnished the plants. Use to be fields of tomates here and then cannery quit. Gteenhouse sold good tomato plants and peppers and stuff and 5 cents each back in the 60's and he just pulled them from the growing crates and wrap newspaper around. Grew fine. When he passed on and no green house here.
I have had the Walmart Expert potting soil and it was fine. But the last I got same stuff suppose to be and it was full of rocks the size end of thumb. Was not fit to use. I plant in anything that will hold the soil. Pans and cut them out. Being just me set plants I worked out my system to cut down on the work as much as I could and fast as I could. I had to change how I did after first year as too dry here. I have to put in ditches and irrigate, Always have had to irrigate here. You till and then re-ditch. I do not have fancy setup but gated pipe . Boiling water works I tried it years back when only few plants but trying for few thousand plants I decided not worth the effort. Time it takes. I bought MG this year as that is what the farm store had and I did not get to city to get anything else. I hate peat pots as they dry out. JackE do you set all those plants in field or just sell plants? |
April 6, 2011 | #30 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Woodville, Texas
Posts: 520
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Howdy, from Texas to Colorado --
We plant them all in the field. We have never sold any plants, but we are considering that in the future. I like the peat pots. They won't dry-out if we set them in a little bit of water in a tray with no holes. Also, when we plant them we always bury them deep enough to cover the top edge of the pot. If not, it will dry out in the ground from "osmosis" - or is it "capillary action." Whatever. :-) They have drawbacks, but they're handy for us and we're used to them. Jack Jack |
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