Discussion forum for environmentally-friendly alternatives to replace synthetic chemicals and fertilizers.
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#1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 4
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![]() ![]() This is where I primarily grow tomatoes, cukes, pole beans,peppers,and basil. I always am adding organic matter to my soil (compost, ect) and mulch with shredded leaves and grass clippings. In the fall I tilled in the mulch and planted winter rye. My levels are (P) 443 ppm, (k) 124ppm, Mg 323 ppm, (CA) 1877 ppm, soil PH is 7.3 (which I would like to get down about 7.0) I don't know why the phosphourous and magnesium levels are off the charts high. Should I use a combination of alfalfa an blood meals for nitrogen, kelp meal for potash ? I will also have access to some composted horse manure this year. During the growing season I use tomatoes alive plus when transplanting, and brew and apply aerated compost tea about every 3 weeks.Recipe: (bacterial compost,vermicompost,garden soil,liquid kelp,mollasses,alfalfa meal,Neptunes harvest fish hydrosalate) Thank you !!! |
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#2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 1,150
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I'd use blood meal (or a combo) along with Potassium sulfate (0-0-50). P. sulfate is approved for organic production (check on that if it really matters) and is an excellent source of both K and S. The sulfates will help shake loose some of your excess Mg and lower your pH. Based on your test recommendations, you would use roughly 3 1/2 lbs. of P. sulfate for 500 sq. ft.
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#3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 4
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Would the Potassium sulfate have any negative affect on microorganism populations ?
Thanks |
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#4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 1,150
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No. It's just important to make sure you're buying P. sulfate (0-0-50) and not P. chloride (0-0-60). P. chloride, which is more common, is very harsh and will definitely have an adverse affect on soil biota.
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