Have a great invention to help with gardening? Are you the self-reliant type that prefers Building It Yourself vs. buying it? Share and discuss your ideas and projects with other members.
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#1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: albuquerque
Posts: 308
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About three years back I made this from on hand materials. 3/8ths bolts 3 1/2 long 3 inches apart. The new pins are longer and tapered and should avoid soil sticking to the threads. Some of our leeks fell over last year and the extra 1 3/4 depth should help with that. there is a metal conduit in the handle because the pvc was to flexible.
Last edited by 4season; January 31, 2015 at 12:59 AM. Reason: add information |
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#2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 903
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Neat. How do you use it? Drag it at an angle to create furrows?
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#3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: albuquerque
Posts: 308
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I push it in then move it forward 3 holes so the spacing stays the same. The new setup will have a fifth short stub to mark the next hole so I don't redo one hole on every push. The 3 inch spacing seems close but the onions and leeks seem to grow well. I use a header with 6 rows of t-tape 6 inches apart and put a row of onions on each side. I will look for a picture of the bed to post.
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#4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: South East Va Zone 7A
Posts: 306
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I am curious I am planting big underground onions. I was told by my Local Dealer to put them just in the ground and then push the dirt up around them? Thanks in advance, Beale.
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#5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: albuquerque
Posts: 308
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We use the dibble to make holes along both sides of a length of drip tape. The plants (from Dixondale) are put in about an inch deep and the soil squeezed against the roots. The plants bulb up nicely, bigger than I expect with such tight spacing. If you are planting sets, the bolts might be need to be shorter so the holes are shallower.
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#6 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: South East Va Zone 7A
Posts: 306
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![]() Quote:
No sets just single bulb onions, thanks for the explanation, Beale. |
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#7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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Yes in heavy clay soil for sure you want the bulb to grow on top.
It makes for a bigger flatter bulb. http://geddies-store.com/yahoo_site_...693203_std.jpg Worth |
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#8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: South East Va Zone 7A
Posts: 306
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Hey Worth I will be putting mine in Mireille Grow Potting Soil for now . Until I get the garden soil. Do I just put them on top? Or about an inch down? Beale.
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#9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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#10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Allen Park, MI
Posts: 178
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What are the tapered tips made from?
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#11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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#12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: albuquerque
Posts: 308
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Sorry about the late reply, the tips are bolts that have been turned on a lathe and there are threaded holes drilled in the top for a 1/4 inch bolt. I wasn't there when they were made but I got a tour of the shop later, too many machines to remember them all.
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#13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 1,001
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I made a rig with a similar concept, but I used all wood. The dibble pins are dowels. It's great not just for making seed holes, but for marking out for spacing. I often plant in wide rows, and running the dibbler/marker down the wide row on a diagonal gives me perfectly offset plantings, zigzag style.
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"Red meat is NOT bad for you. Now blue-green meat, THAT'S bad for you!" -- Tommy Smothers |
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