Found the first tomatoes today!

ginger2778 · April 9, 2015

Calcinit is most helpful in containers as a source of calcium to help prevent BER. As a fertilizer the nitrogen in it will give the plant's green vegetation a boost, but not so helpful for the fruiting stage.

Here's my spray regimen, and I believe in prevention too. Like Texas, we get hot humid conditions. I am going to be very specific about the brand, and the mixing.

1/2 Tablespoon per gallon of Southern Ag brand liquid copper fungicide, which is at half of their labeled weakest strength, but believe me it is very effective. Liquid copper is an OMRI accepted use fungicide( organic). When fully mixed and diluted, I put in 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of anybody's brand of BT, because this kills caterpillars really effectively, its a bacterium that they eat even one of, and it gives them an infection, but completely safe for people and animals, and beneficials. I put it in after the copper is fully diluted, because copper is not only a fungicide, but also bactericidal, and I don't want to kill the BT with strong mix. Last, I squeeze in about 1/10 of a teaspoon per gallon of dish soap liquid, to break the surface tension and allow the spray to spread.
I spray the tops and bottoms of all leaves and also the stem down to the soil line, I do this every 10 days, or every 7 days during times when the morning dew is dripping off the leaves, and also after a heavy rain. I try to avoid flower truss sprays.
I also do selective pruning of leaves to thin them out a bit for air flow.
I agree, prevention is the key, but I like organic methods.
I used to use neem, also very effective, but I didnt like that the oil stays on the plant, because even though it dries, oil + heat scares me. It's not much of a concern with the copper. Neem is organic too.

April 9, 2015	#1
ginger2778 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10 Posts: 9,283	Calcinit is most helpful in containers as a source of calcium to help prevent BER. As a fertilizer the nitrogen in it will give the plant's green vegetation a boost, but not so helpful for the fruiting stage. Here's my spray regimen, and I believe in prevention too. Like Texas, we get hot humid conditions. I am going to be very specific about the brand, and the mixing. 1/2 Tablespoon per gallon of Southern Ag brand liquid copper fungicide, which is at half of their labeled weakest strength, but believe me it is very effective. Liquid copper is an OMRI accepted use fungicide( organic). When fully mixed and diluted, I put in 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of anybody's brand of BT, because this kills caterpillars really effectively, its a bacterium that they eat even one of, and it gives them an infection, but completely safe for people and animals, and beneficials. I put it in after the copper is fully diluted, because copper is not only a fungicide, but also bactericidal, and I don't want to kill the BT with strong mix. Last, I squeeze in about 1/10 of a teaspoon per gallon of dish soap liquid, to break the surface tension and allow the spray to spread. I spray the tops and bottoms of all leaves and also the stem down to the soil line, I do this every 10 days, or every 7 days during times when the morning dew is dripping off the leaves, and also after a heavy rain. I try to avoid flower truss sprays. I also do selective pruning of leaves to thin them out a bit for air flow. I agree, prevention is the key, but I like organic methods. I used to use neem, also very effective, but I didnt like that the oil stays on the plant, because even though it dries, oil + heat scares me. It's not much of a concern with the copper. Neem is organic too.